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Reviews by dredsovrn (59)

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P.A.S Average Rating = 4.57/5 Average Rating : 4.57/5

In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Webbing

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2005-03-17


I used mine for the first time in Potrero. I will definitely make regular use of it on trad as well. While it lacks some of the versatility of traditional slings, it is full strength at every loop and therefore more useful than a daisy. It is bulkier than a daisy, but I didn't find this to be a problem. Hard to beat for a single piece that will handle all of your personal anchoring needs.


Neutrino Carabiner (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.21/5 Average Rating : 4.21/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-08-07


Probably not an aid climbers choice, but for free climbing they work fine. They don't give you a lot of room to work, but they are light and have a good feel. Good biner for the price as well.


Zero Camming Devices Average Rating = 3.86/5 Average Rating : 3.86/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-08-07


I picked up the Z3 and Z4 for small placements for free climbing. These are my first real micro cams. My smallest before this is a #1 TCU. They are very well made and I like the double sling, especially when I am using double ropes. Placed both the other day and they seem to function well. Very flexible. The wide/long caused some placements to be challenging, and the trigger had some tendancy to slide forward which made removal a little tricky, but no real problems. Good micro cams overall. Next I will try micro camalots as their Kn rating is much higher in similar sizes.


Smoothy (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Review 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-07-27


I am not sure what they were going for. I grabbed them while looking for new shoes because the upper was so soft. I figured it would form fit and be very comfortable when it was cranked down. It was comfy alright, but tended to gap, and let your foot move around. I couldn't get it to work, but maybe that's me.


Stainless Steel Bolt Hanger (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Bolts and Hangers

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-07-23


Strong hanger. Easy to clip. No rust. What more could you need?


Ring Anchor Stainless (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Bolts and Hangers

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-07-23


Reasonably priced, and user friendly. Easy to clip the bolts, and the rap rings give you plenty of space to thread the rope for lower. I imagine they would be nice for multi pitch anchors as well.


Venom (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.74/5 Average Rating : 4.74/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Slippers

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-07-23


This is a great shoe. I am a recent convert to Sportiva, and have been climbing in Miuras for the last few months. I liked them so much, I couldn't bring myself to wear my old slippers which was a pain on single pitch sport days. As many have noted they run big and I actually went 2.5 sizes down from my Miuras. They are definitely tight, but I am counting on a .5sz stretch despite the rubber top.

As for function they are excellent. They are really good for edging and smearing. Not as good as a stiffer lace up, but top notch for a slipper. The small focused toe gets you into small pockets and cracks. If you are looking for a high performance slipper, I don't think you can go wrong here.


Cinch (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Climbing Ropes: Rope Bags and Tarps

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-07-11


This rope bag is a little different. I was used to the Metoilus bag with the roll up tarp, and thought this would be similar. I was a little thrown off at first, but now I really like it. If you are jumping from route to route, it is really easy to use. In between climbs, just velcro the two sides together and pick it up by the straps. Then you can just drop it at the next climb without having to roll it up or out. When you are done for the day, throw all your stuff in, pull the straps, and you are done. It carries over the shoulder like a gym bag rather than a backpack.


Miura Shoe (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.79/5 Average Rating : 4.79/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-06-15


My second pair of lace ups I have owned. These shoes are great. Smearing and all the edging I could ask for. Comfortable as well (which was a pleasant suprise). I don't think you can go wrong with this one.


Reflex (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.54/5 Average Rating : 4.54/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-06-04


Great shoe. I have been climbing in slippers for some time, and needed a shoe with better edging as I push into harder grades. I borrowed this pair from my friend and cruised a 5.11b with confidence. The edging was awesome. You get a lot less feel than with a slipper, but the compromise allowed me to stand on damn near anything. The lacing system is great too, as each time you tighten a section the laces stayed in place and did not pull back through. You are going to have a tough time beating this one for the price if you desire a great edging/finger crack shoe.


Raven Pro (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.25/5 Average Rating : 4.25/5

In: Gear: Alpine & Ice Climbing: Ice Axes and Hammers

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-06-04


Full service and light as a feather. I don't know what else to say. This is a great mountaineering axe. The only down side is the price, but all extra light, strong products are expensive.


Thermarest Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-06-04


Certainly a well made product and far superior to nothing, but it didn't get it done for me. For the same weight or less, you can have a blow up pad that is much more comfortable, thicker, bigger and warmer.


Helium Clean Wire Carabiner (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-06-02


Light as a feather. The gate opening is very large, and the rope bearing surface is a wide, smooth radius. The gate clips shut with authority, and the clean nose is snag free. A little on the pricey side, but you get what you pay for. Fantastic product.


Taj 3 Tent - Special Buy Average Rating = 4.25/5 Average Rating : 4.25/5

In: Gear: Hiking and Camping: Tents: Backpacking Tents

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-30


For two people it is a huge tent by todays standards. A little snug for three but workable. Not real light at 8lbs with rainfly and ground cloth, but if you split the load it is reasonable. Holds up great to big winds and thunderstorms. Not a drop of water inside. Nice and wide open on a rainless night.


Bugette Device Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-30


Well made and functional for double ropes (thin ones). It works smoothly and gives you confidence belaying or rapping on skinny cords. Gets pretty hot on rap since it is so small, so watch your hands.


Superstatic (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-30


I don't have a lot of use for static line, but I use this rope for TR anchors when I take a group out. I was amazed at how suple the rope was compared to other static lines. Minimal stretch under load, and takes knots easily. It has held up to a lot of abuse, and still look like new. I bought mine as a short rope for www.gearexpress.com


16oz Narrow Mouth Bottle (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.71/5 Average Rating : 3.71/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-28


A lot of times, a large Nalgene is too much to strap to the harness, and you don't always want a hydration pack on your back. Even full, this isn't any more cumbersome than a large cam on your harness. Just enough to get the job done, and the narrow mouth put the water in you and not on you.


Ascension Handled Ascender (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.53/5 Average Rating : 4.53/5

In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Ascenders

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-28


Great prodcut. Strong and runs smoothly up the line. Locks off on the rope with authority and confidence. If you want to put one between your waist and chest, the Basic is a better product because it will fit better and accomplish the same thing (unless you have a ridiculously long torso, which I don't)


Sonic (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.43/5 Average Rating : 4.43/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Harnesses: Adjustable

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-28


I have been using this harness for about a year on trad, sport, and ice. It would be hard to imagine a better harness. Pricey, but comfy and durable.


Bubba (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-27


I put two of these on my home wall. You can spin them in all different directions and change a problem with one hold. The possibilites and difficulty levels are endless with this monster.


Fuel Bottles (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.80/5 Average Rating : 3.80/5

In: Gear: Hiking and Camping: Stoves: Fuel and Accessories

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-26


As far as fuel bottles go these are great. What can you say? Light, durable, and they don't leak.


PocketRocket Stove (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Hiking and Camping: Stoves: Canister Mounted

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-26


Anytime you are trying to save space and weight you compromise. This stove strikes a good balance. You couldn't get much smaller or lighter. Sets up and burnse easilty and resists wind. The base is a little small so set it flat and don't bump the pot. As with all canisters you will need two cans of fuel if you don't know how much is in the one you already cracked. Overall you can't beat this one to go fast and light.


Dragonfly (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.77/5 Average Rating : 3.77/5

In: Gear: Hiking and Camping: Stoves: Backpacking Stoves

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-26


Full service cooking in the outback. This stove will do it all and is fairly compact and light for its features. You can put damn near anything that burns in it and make it work. One downside is that it sounds like you are lifting off from Kennedy when cooking at high output. You might wake up the camp.


Alpine Aiders (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Webbing: Aiders and Etriers

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-26


I am not much of an aid climber but I suspect you would be disappointed big walling in these, but that is not what they are for. To have along on adventure climbs, or anywhere you think you might run into a few aid moves to make the next belay, these are your aiders. Light, simple, and functional.


Climbing DVD - Front Range Freaks Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33/5

In: Gear: Media: Videos and DVDs: Climbing

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-24


The best I have seen yet. Well produced, good stories, interensting characters and hard climbing. Though to beat this one. I have watched it 5 or 6 times in the few months I have owned it.


Climbing Average Rating = 4.22/5 Average Rating : 4.22/5

In: Gear: Media: Magazines

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-24


I have to give climbing a just OK. It seems a little white washed and generic. It strikes me as the Ladies Home Journal of climbing magazines. Very safe and lots of fancy ads. Don't misunderstand and think I am against advertising. I just think the writing and articles sometimes seem thrown together to get the thing out. I still read itl, but look forward to Gripped and Alpinist.


Alpinist (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.07/5 Average Rating : 4.07/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-24


This mag is unbelievable. The photography is unparalleled in periodicals. I really like the self indulgent writing. Everybody always tries to write nice articles, but in Alpinist, no one is afraid to say how impressed with themselves they are, and everyone else appears to be happy to point out that they are morons. Good contentious comentary about real climbing adventures. Great stuff without a hint of political correctness. Two thumbs up!


Gripped Magazine Average Rating = 3.83/5 Average Rating : 3.83/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-24


I really like this magazine. It is less reserved than most US publications and has a little bit of a different perspective. I did take forever for the first issue to arrive, but so do most mags.


Adjustable Gear Sling (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Webbing: Slings

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-24


Simple, well made, comfortable. This one hit the mark for me. I was able to adjust it for a more natural fit. The pad is comfy with a lot of gear, and the coated sling clips easily.


Adjustable Double-D Gear Sling (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.12/5 Average Rating : 4.12/5

In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Webbing: Slings

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-24


I just couldn't make this one work well. I found my gear got jammed up in the smaller loops. Seemed like a great idea, but something was always getting clipped to something else. Well made, but not for me.


Contact Sling Dyneema 8mm - 30cm (1ft) popular Average Rating = 4.76/5 Average Rating : 4.76/5

In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Webbing: Slings

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-24


These things are sweet. Light, thin, and full strength. You wouldn't want to use the for a friction knot, but that is about it.


Enduro (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.17/5 Average Rating : 4.17/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-24


A good strong, inexpensive, multipurpose biner. I still have a number of these on the gear end of draws.


Oval Carabiner (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.82/5 Average Rating : 3.82/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Ovals

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-24


Good all purpose biner. Inexpensive, but heavy. Start your rack with these so you can replace them all with wires when you get more gear. Actually, I always keep a couple on the rack. They come in handy more often then you might suspect.


DropZone (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.81/5 Average Rating : 4.81/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Crash Pads

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-20


This is an excellent pad. Thicker, more durable, bigger, and more useful than most others. The price is very reasonable as well. Fold it up, stuff your shoes, water, chalk and whatever else inside and head out. It packs easilty, and folds up and doploys in seconds. This pad will take a beating for years.

I was recently at a bouldering competition and had to write my name on mine. Of roughly 100 climbers, there had to be about 50 of these pads there. Tough to argue with that kind of support. I am sure the Mondo is nice, but for the money you will have a hard time beating this one.


Warrior Board popular Average Rating = 4.20/5 Average Rating : 4.20/5

In: Gear: Training & Accessories: Hang Boards

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-20


I really like this board for its combination of texture, and multiple hold options in a small space. You can really build some endurance on it.


Guide Tennie (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.40/5 Average Rating : 4.40/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Approach Shoes

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-20


I love these shoes. The tread is not fantastic but good enough for most trail approaches and walk offs. The shaped toe and relatively sticky rubber is great for those scrambles up to, and off of, climbs. I got mine a little on the snug side so I could handle some moderate tecnical terrain, but still hike in with them. A little lighter would be better for carrying ona climb, but overall they fit the bill.


Cam Lube - 2oz (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Training & Accessories

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-20


Good lube for cams. It is a little hard to apply carefully. It would be better if there was a long tube type spout so you could get the lube where you want it and keep it off the lobes.


32oz Wide Mouth Bottle (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.34/5 Average Rating : 4.34/5

In: Gear: Training & Accessories: Water Bottles and Bags

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-20


Large volume, durable, and easy to use for filling pots. You might want the adapter to make it easier to drink if you don't want to wear your water on the trail. Nalgene's a staple, but I don't take it up the rock with me.


JC Wiregates Average Rating = 4.40/5 Average Rating : 4.40/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-14


Light, smooth gate action, nice rope bearing surface, but the gate doesn't open far enough. I always feel like they are tough to clip. Maybe my rope and hands are too big.


Hotwire Wiregate Carabiner (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.31/5 Average Rating : 4.31/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-14


Nice wire biner. Easy to clip. I use these on the rope end of pro whenever I can. They will be the last to come off the rack as I replace biners with new lightweight WC heliums.


OvalWire Carabiner (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.41/5 Average Rating : 4.41/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Ovals

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-14


All the great usefullness of an oval in a lighter, easier to clip design. Not the lightest out there, but useful and reasonably priced.


Jake Screw-Lok popular Average Rating = 4.56/5 Average Rating : 4.56/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Locking Carabiners

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-14


I have 5 of these and they get a workout. They go into anchors, belay redirects, attach to ATC's, and are master points for top ropes. I particuarly like the auto lockers.


Enduro Screwgate (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.09/5 Average Rating : 4.09/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-14


Great biner. I always keep three on the back of my harness along with two big lockers, belay device, and cordellette. They always get used at anchors, and sometimes on gear a crux spots or where the rock seems to want open a gate. They see a lot of use.


Grigri Belay Device (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.24/5 Average Rating : 4.24/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-14


Certainly a functional and well made device. However, I don't use it, and don't really like it. It is heavy, and not as versatile as I would like in a belay device. I never let go with my break hand anyway so what's the point? It also has an unnerving tendancy to snag when you are feeding out slack and the leader is hauling ass. I know a lot of people will disagree with me, but given the choice, I will go with an ATC or Reverso first.


Flash 10.5 Climbing Rope (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.75/5 Average Rating : 4.75/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Climbing Ropes: Dynamic Single Ropes

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-14


Good rope. Nice and supple right out of the box. It fuzzed up pretty quickly but always maintained a nice hand.


Rage (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.83/5 Average Rating : 4.83/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-12


My favorite shoe I have owned to date. I think a little more midsole would help its edging without compromising its sensitivity. Overall a great shoe.


Excellence 8.6mm Double Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-05


These ropes are great. They held my first trad lead falls. The pair weight about as much as a single 10.5 on lead, but much less than two 10.5's (if you are trailing a second on multipitch). Nice hand as well. The rope clips easily, runs freely, and halfs allow a lot more protection options. They also make it easy to make your belay stations multidirectional.

These will be easy for the leader and tough on the belayer. Not unmanageable, but be prepared for some snarls the first few times. My favorite lead ropes.

Get yourself an ATC-XP or DMM Buggette for a belay device to handle these skinny cords. You may want to double up on biners on rappell for better control.


Stratos 10.5 X 60 M Dry Rope Average Rating = 4.22/5 Average Rating : 4.22/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-05


Good rope at a great price. It needs a bit of action before it softens up and has a better feel, but it is good for all around duty. A little heavy on a long pitch, but so are all 10.5's. It has held up well to regular abuse.


Titan Pants Average Rating = 3.71/5 Average Rating : 3.71/5

In: Gear: Clothing: Men's Clothing: Men's Bottoms

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-04


These seem to work well all around for climbing. Decent stretch, side and top access cargos, legs snap up, and they are light. Loose the belt though.


Tri Cam (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.69/5 Average Rating : 4.69/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Passive: Hex, tricams, etc

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: dredsovrn, 2004-05-04


I like the tricams now that I have played with them for a while. At first, I wanted to place one so bad, I tried them everywhere. Now that I have calmed down, I reach for them when the time is right. You definitely need to learn to place these.

> >|