Ascent Notes for: The Long Climb - 5.8 Average Rating : 4.45/5

P1 of Wong Climb, then Mummy Crack, linked up 3&4, 5&6. Really fun climb, with some heinous moments, watch out for the "downward jutting block" AKA Death Pizza at the top.


I'll second the suggestion of bringing a #4 Camalot along, and don't forget the micro nuts for the top!

Some very classic pitches. Did a direct variation instead of the 6R, that was maybe 8. Into several more 8 finger crack and tips dihedral at the top. Also had a 7R section above the 8 finger crack.

Did the original start. Wong start looks better. Second pitch was fun-great offwidth. Couple of interesting moves on p3 too. I think we got off route (again) for the last pitch. Couldn't tell you what we did but it was heart thumping.
Pretty busy route.

up the rock, especially when the topo steers you into some harder terrain towards the top. Linked it into 4 pitches and did some interesting variations between this climb and WhoDunit. Did the "real" start as well which isn't bad, but not preferable.

Climbed with Bill Davis and Tom Keefer.

OS

Great climb. The first pitch was fun, but my favourite was the Mummy Crack in pitch two. Just a great offwidth crack. The whole climb was just fun.

Linked it in 4 pitches with some simulclimbing on the last pitch.
Fun first pitch, great jams! Second pitch chimney is awesome. 3rd was interesting, as many options exist - took an immediate right option and then merged into the main corner several feet up - great pro, fantastic moves. Linked this up with pitch 4 up to the big living tree (60m rope). Then came the "reach around block", which I climbed straight on (C3s for pro) - superfun balancy moves (felt about Tahquitz 5.9). Then basically stayed straight going through a wide crack and some cool parallel left-leaning cracks, until a small traverse left on a tiny shelf and a lichen covered slab straight up on poor pro to the small roof and a traverse right to get around it. At this point I ran out of rope and had to ask my partner to simul the remaining 80 ft on the final slab to get to the top.

This is one amazing climb! Out of all the climbs I have done on Tahquitz, this is certainly the most sustained difficult climb.

We did the first pitch of the Wong Climb, a nice fist jam the continued on the Long Climb. While the first pitch is a full rope length, the remaining 5 pitches are half a rope length and some of them surely can be combined (depending on the size of your rack and how much pro you place).

The best climb I have done on Tahquitz until now!

Did the first pitch of the Wong Climb, a super sick hand crack with a hidden surprise lip on the inside that lets you get bomber hand jams. Second pitch (Long Climb) was a the famous Mummy Crack another super sick crack with another hidden surprise lip, but this time a fat off-width which can be climbed like an easy lie-back. Did a variation on the 3rd pitch and went up and over the overhang instead of traversing to the left. 4th pitch took me to another somewhat challenging section, an overhanging block with no hands except a downward pointing spike and a narrow seam with a piton scar for pro or fingers (felt like 5.9). Then continue up and to the right (I went left and ended up on a sketchy lichen covered slab and had to down climb), then to the top. WATCH OUT FOR LOOSE BLOCKS in the gullies of pitches 3 and 4.

There are also a number of very fun and exposed moves scattered through out the climb, there was one in particular (can't remember exactly where it is) that takes you to the left over a ~4ft gap, to get across you have to reach for the 2" horizontal crack on the big square block, reach over, throw a hand in and swing over and up. My favorite part of the route.

On of my favorite routes at Tahquitz so far!

I led all pitches.