Ascent Notes for: White Punks on Dope - 5.8 popular Average Rating : 5.00/5

Great route, missed the traverse on the last pitch and headed straight up for about 100 ft. without pro--5.9--can u say Pucker Up? Talked to a friend of the first ascentionist, bolts straight up on the last pitch now?

Great climb with CLASSIC pitches. This is a seirra must do if 5.8-5.9 is your deal (like me) . I would do it again.

Did this one with Aaron Baily. Fantastic!

climbed about five years ago; i found it rater sustained, challenging, and pretty nerve-wracking up high on the slabs; i'd definitley put it in the 5.9 range; commitment in yosemite is 5.9, and i found this climb monumentaly harder than that, but to each his own; bring a TON of small cams for the long corner, and i highly reccommend belaying in the little cave on top of the first roof (would make a short second pitch, but it's just so beautiful to hang in that cave and look out)

the approach is long; start early

for anything in the needles i'd say you want to be a very solid climber; it's the most intimidating place i've climbed; there can be wind, and you really feel like you're way out there at times (less on voodoo than on the other needles)

it really is an awesome route; not as pure perhaps as other needles classics, but more varied; on the "chimney" pitch we just climbed the slab on the outside of the chimney, but it's unprotected

perhaps others feel differently, but i found this a pretty challenging, sustained, and at times, runout climb, definitely the slab pitches at the end, or if you don't bring enough gear for the long corner (which we did in two pitches with a party of three: hanging belay up in the corner, i highly reccommend you AVOID this if possible)

as far as a party of three is concerned: we did first pitch to a bit below the overhang, which was a modest stance, then to the cave which was lovely for three, then past the chimney to the base of the corner, which was fine standing for three, then hanging in the corner (don't do it, go to the top, also, you might want big gear for the last section of the corner), top of the corner, which is ok for three, then another ledge, then the top

well, the needles is basically as good as anywhere in the world, and to me, it's probably the most amazing and majestic place i've ever been; i'll never forget coming round the corner into the area between the sorcerer and the witch, mind blowing, and for me, very intimidating

get at it!

oh yeah, baby - led pitches 2 and 4, and if that roof at the start is 5.7 there must be something other than a lieback available . . . i mean it was no problem, but if so some of the most committing 5.7 ever! and the 4th pitch slabs were wild - cool stuff, runout, not like the slabs we have at home (and we have a lot of slabs!)

Superb line with aesthetic climbing. First pitch has a beautiful hand crack with feldspar knobs on the face up to the roof. The endurance corner on pitch 4? has sustained finger crack/stemming calf screaming climbing for 150 feet with Zero rests. Take your time and dont overwork yourself or you will burn out. The slab pitch is beautiful if a little crunchy in spots. Belay from the top left of this pitch after setting a directional in and take photos of your second with an amazing backdrop. The left variation at the top really ties it all together with a nice thin flake/crack system to the top. All said and done id give a 5.8+ for the sustained nature of the finger crack pitch

varied, nice ledges, great climbing - a true classic
5.8+

Done this route many times!

It is a Sierra Classic!

Lieback pitch 4 and face pitch 5 are by far the best, but the whole routes is worthy!

Very nice route. Great reward of excellent views after topping out. Pretty straightforward descent for a big formation.

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