Ascent Notes for: Raunchy - 5.8 Average Rating : 3.52/5

I did the middle section on a TR after seconding Wild Horses. I think it's leadable by me, seemed pretty straight forward (other than the unprotected start)

Followed Cleanly, would lead.

followed eve

and skipped bouldery, thin start. was still fun, but short, i guess.

hard start as the first pro is a reach.

I've done this a dozen times, at least, and I'm not tired of it. One of the easiest, if not the easiest, 5.8s in the 'Gunks.

In my opinion, if you do the direct start (as opposed to walking onto the ledge from the left) the “thin bouldery moves” make this a 5.9. The upper crux from the corner onto the face is still 5.8. Also, the direct start as well as the crux are poorly protected by micro-wires. That does not confer “G” gear rating for me… be sure to bring tricams or mid-sized aliens for some pod placements (though what Gunks climbers does not have these?)

First pitch only.

Nice climb for the last evening of after-work climbing. The start will test your slab skills.

Did the first pitch a couple months ago and was greeted by a big snake at the first belay. Did Gory Thumb to the ledge then headed up the second pitch. A little run out at the beginning, a little bit of lichen throughout, BUT really nice moves through the roof. Watch for loose blocks under the roof.