Ascent Notes for: East of Eden - 5.10c Average Rating : 4.38/5

Varied climbing. I'd rack a half set of nuts (every other), slings, doubles .5-1, and a 3 or 4 for near the bottom. There are lots of gear options though.

The humidity must have been around 80% when I did this one and it was dirty from recent rain. A distinct endurance crux where the wall steepens, the feet go away, and the crack diverges. Real good route although the bottom half can be quite dirty. Some of the footholds are shiny so be careful.

This is a fantastic climb. Felt more like a 5.10c to me. The gear is bomber and the movement is fun.

apparently this used to be 5.9+ - sandbag! Nice varied climbing with a mix of face holds and jams. The crux is towards the top in the double cracks. Mostly green camelots (.75) and smaller gear. A couple other climbers told me this route is sometimes dirty but I found it to be clean with good climbing - just 15' of crap to plow through at the beginning.

We forgot our guide books and I thought this was a 5.9; whoops! It did not go very well...need to do this again for sure.

this thing is hard, way hard. i'd say its harder than Torpedo or Loose Lips....came damn close to blowing off up top! prolly the best .10 at the forks, though!

I didn't know Shelley but I was thinking about her all the way up this fantastic route. So sad!

Wow! Put everything I had into this route and barely eke'd it out. A .5 and two .75 camalots provided bomber pro for the crux section. Used one #1 camalot down low and nothing larger anywhere on it.

My first RP took a long time, pump pump pump.

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