lovesclimbing's Logbook (196 ascents)

This is a very good route that no one seems to climb, it is great to have a great trad route with what seems to be sport routes on yam poping up everywhere. So in saying this you will not find sport climbing protection on this route, as well I was very surpised at how good the climbing was on this route as I have not heard much about this route. A must climb for those with decent route finding skills, pro placement skills are important on this route are very usefull as most placements are in diffcult areas.

This is a good fast sport route although kinda sad to be climbing this route right beside the Bowl, East End boys and Yellow Edge. The route is very stright forward with the climbing being on the most part sligtly techy with a bit of power. The cruxs are very well protected.
I found that the 11b/c crux a bit soft for the grade, the second 11a crux very fun but did take a min to sort out the sequence, the thrid 11a pitch is fun but somewhat non descriptive. My partner and I found the last pitch 10c the best pitch with some great climbing and farily physical compaired to the lower 5 pitchs. We climbed the route in 5 pitchs as I linked the first and second pitchs. If I were to do this route again and had a timeline I think I would have brought a few more draws and linked oitchs 3 and 4 as well.
We rapped the route in 5 raps with the 4th rap being rope streach takeing you to the next anchor however I do rap with a backup system and when I get close to my ends I knot them as well. A fun route but by doing a route like this or Dreambed does not equall to doing CMC wall or Yellow Edge.

Route is nothing special and not really worth the approach up to yam although it is still there and if you enjoy climbing on loose rock it is a good short route for that. There is a fair share of loose rock although you can still find solid stuff and ok pro.

This route is a lot better than what the yam book trys to state, the crux is poorly protected with a poor fall in my eyes. The rest of the climb aside from the odd section of loose rock this is a great short trad route with some very fun climbing and lots varation to take at your own choice or type of climbing. The route has not been graded in the new book like what Andy has done with other soft grading, you will not find this climbing on a 5.9 sport route but I feel that it is a good 5.9 yam route.

1st pitch crux is a bit heady with the possible fall although the climbing is all there. The belay is diffcult to make up without some pins although I Dont think I would take them on a 2nd go. 2nd pitch is by far the best climbing with great gear, solid rock where you want it with some strenuous pulls over the 1st roof and I went right on the second roof enjoying great pulls on it, I traversed towards missionary crack for a comfortable belay and fast set up with just have to back up pins, 3rd pitch is quite good as well to a 2 pin belay. 4th pitch has some great steming and also the odd climbing over towered blocks but still great.

Very fun, was in very good condition this year with just a couple of moves on rock, the ice was awsom with being thick enugh for good picks but sometimes bottoming out 13's to keep it intresting, and you could choose a line from easy wi 5 to easy wi 6

I tried this route in winter conditions with my partner for something to do and backed off around the chimneys. It took us about 3hrs to get to that point. When we did it this time in good condtions we soloed the bottom half side by side just talking which was really cool, and did the top half in 2 pitchs in 2 hours base to top in a casual day. There is lots of fixed gear although this route could slow some people down if your not used to loose rock or when to move fast on easy stuff

This is a great moderate route, we did the broken wing start inorder to avoid the scrambley polished stuff on unnamed and made for a bit more climbing. There is a bit of wondering once you get onto nuns proper but you can find a slightly harder line to take you to the Toe traverse which is a very easy treaverse line but something that I have looked at many times in the past wondering about it. I countinued up to the Rejection of the fath belay with a bit of rope drab but better postion for the next pitch for protection from rockfall. This can make the next pitch to be either very short or let you link the next one together with rope drag as well. This pitch seems to be where everyone gets lost or stumped and back off. As you reach the back of the Toe, start climbing up getting good pro in the back of the Toe, once about 20-30ft up you will see a faint traverse line and 2 hidden bolts for a station, I linked this pitch and the next together with rope drag to belay at the upper belay opion. We linked the last 2 pitchs together as well and aside from the scrappy start on the groove of pitch 6 and the poor landing if you were to bite it, that upper corner crack is very good fun climbing, the last pitch is the same exit as missionary crack.

This route is a very fine route with lots of diffrent types of climbing and I highly recomend this route for route finding, protecion and dealing with diffrnt rock qualities. We climbed this with a 70m single, set of nuts and a good selection of cams

This route is almost a carbon copy of the other fast routes that have been put up here in the last few years

An alreight route

A fun first pitch that has some great climbing