andrewG's Logbook (159 ascents)

A little funky at the bottom, then sinker jams for 80' or so.

So much fun!

Approach as per the original route. Mechanical persistence is approx. 100 ft to the climbers right of the original route. Bolts are well camouflaged, but the first pitch's anchor chains are easily visible from the base. Route starts just right of a small tree. There is a shiny bolt in a groove 20-30 ft right of mechanical persistence (unemployment line?) that is around 20 ft up.

P1: 5.10a climb past many bolts to small ledge with chain anchors. 90'
P2: 5.9 Climb up and left off belay. Follow bolts to a 2 bolt anchor on a small ledge. 80'
P3: 5.11a Climb straight up off belay. After clipping the last bolt go right on slab/ramp to 2 bolt anchor. 90'
P4: 5.10b Follow bolts to the top. 2 bolt chain anchor. 90'

Descent: Rap from the top to 3rd pitch anchors. Rap off these anchors to the right to a ledge on top of a slab. Scramble down to the climbers right and then down loose, steep, vegetated gully back to packs.

Rack: 12-14 draws (some long ones to minimize drag)
Gear of choice for anchors.

Fun climb. I feel like I cheated by laybacking the crux.

fun climbing. Nice fingers. Kinda slabby with a thin crux

Harder but less awkward than the other start. I protected it with 2 blue metolius tcus and a .5 camalot. Highly recommended if you prefer bomber finger locks over awkward stemming. The rest of the climb is classic. Doubles .5-1 and a single 2 (c4s) plus a set of nuts should see you safely to the top.

alright climb. A number 4 would have been nice, but there is a seam you can protect with small nuts on the left where the 4 would be handy.

challenging stems down low moves into hands/fists with the occasional jug on the face.

After flailing on the roof start for a while I got some beta that didn't suck (I used these holds... oh I think I actually pulled on some gear at that point) and it was pretty mellow, though the rattling holds freaked me out (recently pulled a block out into my face). After that the climbing is really mellow and fun.

fun climb. Bottom has really thin pro. Pull the bulge/roof and then climb awesome double cracks to the top.