Routes : Reviews
billiebob's Logbook (44 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (0)
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Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps
Star Action
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor |  |
Onsight ascent by:
A fun and dynamic route
When I first did this there were pins protecting the crux. Now that they are gone gear works just as well. The crux is very committing. Once you start you either get into the corner or you are going for a pretty long ride. This route is way easier than Coex or Graveyard shift.
Added: 2008-08-08
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps
Graveyard Shift
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Easier than Coex, but a pretty involved lead
So much going on here, from the thin crappy wires on the initial headwall to the creative gear and scary traversing on the crux. Superb route.
Added: 2008-08-08
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps
Laughing Man
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Worthwhile roof problem with good gear
Since when is this 11b? In my old Swain guidebook it's rated 5.10- and that seems pretty reasonable to me. I could imagine it being very hard if you don't know the beta. A worthwhile route.
Added: 2008-08-08
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps
Wild Horses
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Good climbing, but scary finish
I wasn't too happy with the gear for the last couple of moves, that's for sure. Fun climb though
Added: 2008-08-08
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps
Carbs and Caffeine
popular
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Great route but use double ropes
If you have doubles it's much easier to string the pitches above P1 together. I had to break up the climb into 4 short pitches. The climbing past the bolts is just as hard as the roof IMO. Offset aliens were really helpful as well.
Added: 2008-08-08
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps
The Stand
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
harder than it looks!
Scary leading after the crux. Almost R rated IMO. Good thing the cruz gear is bomber. Flexibility and good high stepping ability are required for this one. A really fun toprope with directionals
Added: 2008-08-08
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps
Golden Showers
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
sustained and crimpy climbing.
This climb is harder to lead than April Showers because it's so sustained and the gear is thinner. Still worth doing.
Added: 2008-08-08
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: Near Trapps
Criss
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
short
good boulder problem
Added: 2008-08-08
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps
City Lights
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Thought it was pretty runout on the face
After that short corner and a good cam or two, I could find literally no gear up to the anchor, which was at least 30 feet. I don't consider gear in loose flakes to be worth placing, but still, I was surprised. Easy climbing though.
Added: 2008-08-08
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps
Coexistence
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Great route but really tough crux.
I've done this route several times but still the crux moves feel so hard. There must be something I'm missing as those crimps are small for 5.10. I throw my left toe far out left and use a left thumb catch to pop up with my right hand.
Added: 2008-08-08
