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billiebob's Logbook (44 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: Near Trapps

To Have or Have Not Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: billiebob on 2006-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars good climbing and a very hard crux.

A fun route, but I think a fair bit harder than To Be.

Added: 2008-08-08

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps

Frustration Syndrome Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: billiebob on 2006-09-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Definitely a double cruxer

I thought it was all over when I made the high step to get to the roof. Boy was I wrong. I only had a tiny nut in the corner when I thrashed through the upper crux and almost fell. Yeesh. Good route because you can toprope the Stand if you don't have the motivation to lead it.

Added: 2008-08-08

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: Near Trapps

Shitface Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: billiebob on 2006-07-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Scary lead b.c of the loose block

I got sandbagged into leading this and while it turned out OK, I was not happy at all with having to pull the roof on that huge loose block. Even afterwards that thin seam felt insecure. Good climbing though.

Added: 2008-08-08

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps

Stirrup Trouble Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: billiebob on 2006-07-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A superb and sustained 5.10

This climb will keep you thinking all the way up. Definitely not a one move wonder like many gunks 5.10s.

Added: 2008-08-08

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: Near Trapps

Transcontinental Nailway Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: billiebob on 2006-06-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars very fun climb

Very happy for my blue alien protecting the crux. I think there was a pin here when I first did it. A classic gunks 5.10

Added: 2008-08-08

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps

Mothers Day Party Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: billiebob on 2006-06-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars good and sustained route when it is dry

I really wouldn't consider this a "g" protected route, and the lunge at the top for the big jug is pretty darn hard. Fun climbing though, and well worth the toprope after climbing MF.

Added: 2008-08-08

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps

Try Again Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: billiebob on 2005-09-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars good route but a short crux


the crux is a big scary if that pin isn't backed up. Crux is short and stout. Well worth doing.

Added: 2008-08-08

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps

April Showers Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: billiebob on 2005-09-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good route with good gear. Bouldery start

This was a cool route with a very bouldery start that must be the crux. Better gear than I expected. Well worth doing.

Added: 2008-08-08

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps

Three Doves Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: billiebob on 2005-09-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars The Myers and Freeman 1980 variation is excellent

Very cool 10b roof leads to white rock and a tough corner finish. A lot of fun and better than the original route IMO.

Added: 2008-08-08

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps

Erect Direction Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: billiebob on 2005-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Incredible route, but a real pumper

The first pitch is a good warmup for the fun to come. I had to break it into three pitches and belay in the corner because of rope drag. I guess I screwed up the double ropes at the crux. The roof on pitch 3 is amazing and super pumpy. Plugging in gear blind didn't make me very happy though.

Added: 2008-08-08

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