chocoface's Logbook (76 ascents)

Pulling the roof is no problem, even for short people.

The roofs are not the crux. Nice face moves.

The Butterfield lists 35 routes at Canada Cliffs...this is one of the few moderates. Buy the guide and explore this isolated climbing area.

Similar to climbing zoro's corner, the fourth clip is scary. On zoro's corner missing the shuts could mean decking or swinging. On Jenga, missing the fourth clip (which is a super hard clip for the grade) means swinging into the zoro face and having your rope run over sharp rock. Using a long sling on the 3rd clip lessens the rope drag but increases the swing potential. Use an old rope, a good belayer (with a helmet) and bring a .75 camalot to protect the swing if you can. Or... just do it.

Want to lead this before it snows!

Mark lent Michelle and I his toprope to climb this pumpy route

Went to Stover to climb Phone Booth. It was a sunday...beautiful weather and thus...jam packed. Walked back the trail and found this route. Turned out to be terrific.

First off, awesome climb! But if you are planning a trip up the Durrance here are some things I found. The guide books for the route all warn of the huge rack one needs to climb the Durrance. Double and triple sets of cams etc. Not so. Perhaps the reason people think this route is so much harder than its rating is that they are carrying way too much gear. If one carried six camalots (.5-4) and a set of nuts and a couple big hexes, they'd be fine! I was surprised at the amount of gear I needed. I typically place much more on routes at the Gunks. The placements were obvious 99% of the time. Also, there are nice eyebolts at each belay point. So you don't need to leave gear at the belay! You start each pitch with a full rack! The pitches all went about 5.7-5.8 as advertised except for durrance crack which I would rate 5.9. My advice, get there at sunrise on a weekday, take the bowling alley approach (adds another pitch of climbing!) and do the Jump traverse to a ropeless meadows finish. A full day adventure.

Balancy and fun.

Long way to first clip, loved it.