ematter's Logbook (233 ascents)

I wouldn't want to fall and eat it in the hueco... belayers be mindful

I wouldn't want to fall and eat it in the hueco... belayers be mindful

Really cool climb - kind of a 1 crux wonder of a few moves getting in/out of the crux. Nice that there is a well placed bolt at the un-protectable crux. Top crack isn't too bad once you're in it (crux ends once you're in the upper crack) upper crack section is like 5.10-. TR sent this 2nd go, then sent on lead the next time I was out. Protects well with small/medium size cams and I slotted a good nut down before the bolt. Placed two solid pieces before the moderate run out to the top. Small polished feet/smears will make this climb more difficult as time progresses. Not sure it felt 12a - kinda like shocker but easier.

Awesome, super technical face climbing. More powerful, sustained, and tiny hand holds than Tonka or Velvet. I guess that's why it's rated 12b. Crazy start beta to technical face that doesn't let up much. Not so sure about the bolting... Decent run out from bolt 2 to 3 (though compared to 3-4 it doesn't feel bad). Large run out from 3 to 4, though the terrain lets up somewhat. I led this once, don't intend on doing it again. It feels pretty significant, especially for the size of the boulder. Not sure you'd deck (if you have a good belayer) but don't want to find out. Besides the bolting, it s a very fun, sustained route. Once you pass the overlap it's easy climbing to the top.

Well, I didn't start this from the ground but rather the wife boulder start. Climbed this on a day crank was soaking but this was fairly dry. Several people climbed it and we didn't know what it was or rated but guessed 11c (off the boulder). Will need to try a ground start, but perhaps crux is up top and didn't change the grade. A bit spacious to bolt 3 but likely wont fall. Pretty good route, but some holds are kind of pokey. Reminds me of Stranglehold but a number grade easier.

Fun face route - decent clipping stances.

Tight hands, so my hands fit well... Committing start off the deck. To clean this is probably best with a 2nd, but I ended up placing a lot of my gear where he wanted his hands... It can be hard getting back on route if you second and fall off.

Haven't fallen off the start yet, but probably will now - it's quite tricky for the grade. Thin and polished start leads to spacious bolting but easier climbing. You can place gear in the overlap.

Surprised myself by almost onsighting on tr. Settled with sending the next go. This is one of the better bolted lines in terms of spacing, not quality of gear. Doesn't feel as run-out as tonka or megabyte. Really cool high step moves off the deck.

Fun, balancy and delicate route. Grade seems a bit soft compared to some other face routes. Still, lots of small hands and feet. Be careful on lead because the landing isn't great if you blow clip 2 (and I've seen several people pop off there).