guidebook's Logbook (20 ascents)

I really love this route there is a weird slabby section with divides in it. After I watch Chris get bloody when Crackadial ate him alive then Hadaka Suzuki, the pray mantis on sighted The Almighty.

On of the best climbs ever bolted on the planet. The bottom moves are all linked with barrel of money straight arms and perfect notched edges for feet. Half way up, reach out left to the bottom of an in cut triangle, where you can genii rest, then move up into it and you can knee lock for a no hands rest. Then up to bomber flacks, where you can stem out and shake out. Now you’re looking at the head wall, where the 11a crux awaits. I throw for the u shape, where the bucket is on top while my fingers of my left hand are lock in a weird mail box slot by rocking up right on my right foot standing on a dark small edge, then right arm wing the top to clip the chain and cold shut. If you’re worried about not being able to finishing this climb don't, because you can lasso the cold shut before the crux by throwing a loop of rope and hooking on to it and finish your led threw the crux on top rope, same on pretty woman. No ego here, I’m only interested in having a good time. PS I also sell stick-clipping videos only the names of the actors have been changed to protect the innocent from the egomaniacs.

This route is at the point where the wall is the closes to the Snake River and the hill leading from the wall to the river is the steepest. So when you get up half way, where a nose like bump is sticking out, the crux, and start logging in air time you feel like you’re a couple of hundred feet up. Because of my full on own it get on anything attitude, I take leader falls regularly. This day on Danger Zone I took 3 leader falls, Barns golf clapped enjoying the show. I wanted to get to the beautiful headwall, which was just to the left of the noise, so I climbed up to a bolt above and right of the nose but could not let go to clip. I did the quick draw McGraw grab a draw off the harness and clip the bolt as I fell away. Only I smacked the backside of the beaner missing the gate, but quickly back handed back across the bolt and snagged the clip. If you’re really pumped out of your mind and need to grab a draw in order to continue the climb so be it. I also sell a videos called “Stick clipping and the art of hang dogging” . I gave it my best shot, had a great time, and resorted to survival aid tactics to finish my led. To air is only human.

The climb has excellent protection even though one crux, the under cling traverse approached via a ramp, only fit two cams of the four on both placements. This did not bother us. The other crux had bomber #9, and other Stoppers, and 1 1/2 inch friend placements; only I was in the middle of three and tied on to two ropes. I clipped the hale line attached to Bill instead of the yellow rope attached to Mark for the last 3 placements of 7 heading into the crux. When I fell I shot out onto the bare wall and took a 50-foot leader fall. The heat from sliding down the wall put small blood blisters on my toes and tips of my fingers. I could hear the rope ripping threw the gear and Bill screaming because he was feeding the second rope out to reduce rope drag. Ripping the rope threw his fingers gave him white burn marks on his hands. I have climbed this route many times; it is clean, good belays, and exciting. To air is only human.

We wanted to climb Thin Air but there were to many orange helmeted guides with groups limed up so we climber Rapid Transit instead. The route snaked up, kind of run out until there were a couple of bolts leading over a budge then up to the upper wall. This is a nice long line. I really liked the route.

When Bill Boyle looked at the left side of the china wall he had his eyes on the black streak and told me that the climb to the left of it would be to easy but that he would put chains on it for me. I left a rope hanging on Minnowmaker for months because I could not climb it clean. Finally someone stole the rope and I had to lead it to continue my attempts to red point. I never could make it over the main roof move to the hidden in cut crack above without hanging and moving my feet. O well, my encyclopedia of unfinished business is so large no ego here only good times, memories, and friends. I named this climb, I also named Praise the lower, which Jeff Pederson ended up first accenting, then Jeff tried to named it "so what" but later agreed to the present name. The Oboe, a cool pump fest, was also ours a, I did manage to red point it.

The three of use did incredible, gorilla, three PM, Coin, super, then I flashed the Wave. The crux seemed to be leaving the shelf moving out left with bad feet and a undercling cling out into a corner.

Bill and I bolted this climb and Spawning, I did not red point it at that time but came back a few years later and finally was able to pull threw the second roof and send it. My encyclopedia of unfinished business has become very large over the years and when the locals heard I red pointed it they wanted to change the rating to 11d.

Boone was working on Bolting B-Line, Jeff Was working on bolting American Flyers and Bill and I were working on Music for Camellias. Jeff was top roping B-line and complaining about the lose rock and the bees and wasps on the climb. Boone threw him a can of bug spray and told him to stop crying. Jeff commented how he couldn’t wait to get off this chouse pile and on his root American Flyers a clean route. So Boon lowered Jeff and I top roped B Line and Bill belayed Jeff on his clean route American Flyers. I was looking down as Jeff started up the climb when all of a sudden Jeff breaks off a softball size rock and pile drives it in to his mouth. He starts screaming, “ Let me down I think I knocked both my front teeth out!” I looked down on him from above and said, “ I can’t wait to get on a clean route” Jeff said “ Shut up”. For the rest of the day every time I looked at Jeff I almost pissed my paints because his lips were twice there normal size. Trying to take him serious while belaying him on the Shining with this swollen feature was impossible. I love all the climbs at the bill Board. I have logged in alot of air time there. You know to air is only human.

I wanted to do Fine Line but Kevin and Deb wanted Mountaineers route. We summit at dusk then made the mistake of going left down the slabs towards to river instead of swinging around to the gully and walking then raping past the tusk to camp. Our only head lamp died shortly after only an hour. A fire that weekend rained white ash which blocking the moon and stars, ash had been falling like snow all day to the ground. We walked hours low to the ground tripping and falling over downed trees and brush in pitch-blackness. It is amazing that one of us did not loss an eye that night. We were forced to repel twice. The first I could barely make out the out line of the tops of trees. I tied a runner around a tree and we rapped. We proceeded to stumbled threw thick bushwhack towards the sound of the river wanting water and some source of direction. We then ran across cliff bands that dropped off out of sight. I setup and anchor we rapped on two 200-foot ropes not knowing how far down it went. I hit ground and pulled the remaining few feet threw my belay device, the others followed. Pulling the ropes one rope got stuck. We yanked and yanked until we decided to leave it and headed once again to the sound of the river. It was really cold down by the river, we drank water, found a hole in the ground then struggled all night to be on the bottom of the pile of bodies to stay warm. The next day we returned to base camp and slept. Later that day we combed the area and could not find the rope or any familiar land marks of our epic adventure. Headlamps don’t leave home without them and just because one way down looks faster, follow the decent outlined in the topes.