jkdfjkdfjkdfjkd's Logbook (16 ascents)

This is an interesting route, especially for the massive contingent of SE climbers who have not climbed cracks before (heh, heh, heh). Route is short (I only used 3 pieces)..but can be unnecessarily pumpy at the top crack if you go at it wrong (I did, fell once). Also? I didn't see any anchors at the top, and so had to traverse right to the top of "Cruise This" to get off. Really fun moves though, but lack of anchor at top was interesting on the slopers.

I've done this on gear (thinnish placements at top) and using the bolt-o-rama that has been created for this route. Only way this is 10a is if you go directly up and pull the overhang at the top...which is more of a pump crux after the bolt sprint below. The moves are fun though...it is a fun route. Lots of people fall off the top move because the bottom is so much easier.

The moves are straightforward, feet are good, and route is probably not 5.9 if you go left at all. There is one 5.9 move towards the top if you go straight up, but you can cheat it by zigging left. Great gear everywhere. Just fun, fun, fun.

People who say this is 5.7 probably didn't lead it on gear. The opening is thin, with marginal gear, and slightly tenous moves...enough of a combination to wake you up. The top, despite the notes here, is fine as long as you keep moving and use the good holds available to you...it feels a little spooky because your last piece is 8 feet below and underneath you, as the top bulges a little. The final move on sloper could feel scary if you were pumped, I suppose. I belayed from the top, and rapped from there using the anchors, no problem. We used to rap by slinging the horn...the anchors are better.

I did this the day after 2 gym climbers (apparently) put their rope directly through the rap webbing (without using the rap rings) and so burned through the webbing while lowering off, dropping one of them about 50 feet onto the trail. After the paramedics (finally) got the kid out (he lived, recovered), I lead this route and found it to be thinly protected, but with fun moves, and good pro when it was available.

Arrived in late afternoon, waited for German team to finish rapping route. Got on with 2 hours til dark. Brought lots of quicks and a couple tiny cams. Swung leads with Scott, moved pretty fast, no falls for either of us (Scott lead crux)...chatted briefly with winner of Phoenix boulder comp at top of P1, who was wigged by the exposure as he and his partner tried to do "Dream of Wild Turkeys" (5.9). They bailed, we topped out and got caught by dark as we rapped. V Easy to miss the belays in the dark...would have been epic without our headlamps. Also easy to rap off rope in the dark...tie knots in ends. Summary: Great route with lots and lots of exposure (you can pretty much see Idaho from the top) ;-)