jkdfjkdfjkdfjkd's Logbook (16 ascents)

If you pick the wrong line between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, you'll create another crux down low. I did, and fell off. ;-) Great route, and definitely the first one to do on Grey Wall.

Don't get suckered into soloing this as a way to reach the top, unless you are very comfortable soloing friction...the last move to top this out is all friction, both hands and feet, and tends to freak a lot of people out. Lots of people are able to solo easily right up to the last move..at which point they think they are going to die. Just sayin...

..cuz you'll be too pumped to pull this crux a second time. The move on the roof is hard...placing the piece is harder ;-) Stays thin after the roof. Fell once trying to place after the roof.

This is *the* climb to do in El Portrero, especially if you can get a buddy to photograph you standing on top of the spire..and your buddy is high on one of the other walls. This is NOT too runout....and to the chump calling for retro bolting it? Dude. Take up knitting. If you are so wigged by not seeing a bolt every 6 feet, go back to the gym and give up sport climbing..and god HELP you if you decide you want to do trad. Idiots like that guy need to get out of the sport.

Lead the first two pitches of this in 2001 (I think the last two hadn't been bolted then). Very interesting and sustained...most hold slightly rounded and vertical. I found it to be very sustained..with spicy distances between the bolts. I was highly incented not to fall. ;-)

Loved, loved, loved this route. I did not find it hard to protect, and although the mantle is committing, just keep paying attention after you do it and you'll be fine. 3 dudes soloing the route reached the crux as we waited off to the side hanging on a tree belay. One of the dudes *almost* fell off that move because he wigged. Happily, he succeeded and they all topped out. I'm going to quote another poster here who said: "Sounds like the person who posted the route info was just pissed because he got his ass spanked on an easy route....Poser!This is a typical yosemite route with greasy fingers, wet sections in early season and lines of gumbies all the way to the top. It is by no means a choss pile, nor is it in any way runnout. If you don't like it, go back to sport climbing you sissy little gromit."

I lead this when I was onsighting hard 11 trad. Almost a mistake.
Heh,heh. Just about zero gear on this thing...sling a small horn halfway up and then hope not to fall. Cheers.

K. So somebody (some chump) added a bolt below the final chains...which takes all the fun out of the route. I would venture to say that this is no longer 10c because of that bolt. The crux (other than the finger pain down low) is clipping the chains while pumped at the top while looking at an 18 foot fall. I miss all the whimpering that used to come from all the people trying to bag this "easy" 10c. A valuable lesson in sport climbing (how to finish a route while pumped, and whimpering) has been destroyed by the addition of that bolt below the chains. A great route has been made entirely unremarkable and average by some climber with a drill who was also undoubtedly unremarkable and average. I rate this route no harder than 5.9 now. You can rest everywhere, the moves are not mysterious. 5.9 with that loser bolt.

Although has been lead trad, the trad version uses the arete in one spot. So....I'd say this is a good use of bolts. Every bolt is perfectly placed to protect each pumpy move. Eat some wheaties, do some pullups, come on out and get this route...it is fun, fun, fun. Nothing mysterious about the moves, just pumpy. I pumped out and fell off below the roof :-(, so had to take the redpoint.

Watched a guy climb this with a broken wrist....he climbed basically one handed....so his partner had to take up the challenge and *he* climbed it one handed as well. That said, this is the perfect route for new climbers, and for new 5.8 leaders. The only "dicey" move is below the second bolt...other than that, every clip is easy and obvious.