johnnyb336's Logbook (155 ascents)

We climbed this route for the first time today in miserable heat. As with all of our new routes, I lead all four pitches. I would have to say that this was one of the more difficult routes to follow of all that I have climbed at Stone.

Pitch 1 begins just uphill from White Way Direct. According to "Selected Climbs," the route begins on a large block just uphill from a black streak. From there it heads up and right past two bolts to the belay. I found the large block and the two bolts do not follow a natural line originating from it. I had to traverse right quite a ways to get beneath that first bolt. It would have made much more sense to start further downhill. From the first bolt, you need to work up and left towards some flakes, where pro can be placed. The second bolt is up to the right of the flakes. From the second bolt, go back left to the abvious belay that is located just above a horizontal crack/break.

On the second pitch, go up to the "Navel," which is an obvious hole in the rock. The climbing here is a little steep but the friction is great. I really didn't have any pro that fit properly. I did get a .4 Camalot to stay in place well enough to possibly hold a fall. I would say a really large cam would probably work here. The first bolt is up and to the left of the Navel. The guidebook shows another bolt directly above this one. There is a bolt but it is out to the left, leading to a belay. I assumed this was the correct line and followed it. I did notice a belay directly above the first bolt, close to Great White Way, but there wasn't a second bolt in the line as described in the book so I guessed it was another route. The second bolt I followed is located at a bulge with some tough moves leading over the bulge to a belay. I was able to get over the bulge by staying just to the right of the bolt. Once at the belay rings, I could see a line following two bolts up and left from the belay near a water groove but no belay anchors above them. I do not believe this is the correct line, but a separate route. I should have gone past the single bolt and straight up to the other set of belays near Great White Way, which would have been easier than the way I went. I referred to two other guidebooks later and both show a single bolt after the Navel, leading straight up to a belay, further increasing my belief that the line to the left is incorrect.

The third pitch, from the correct belay, leads up and slightly left to a single bolt, then up unprotected rock to another set of belay rings. From my position on the wrong line, I traversed right to the single bolt so I would be back on track. The unprotected rock leading to the belay rings had a lot of loose, flaky rock so use caution.

The fourth pitch can be followed in two different ways, both about the same as far as difficulty. The map in "Selected Climbs" shows the route going to the left near a tree at the bottom of a large overhung corner and going left around the corner. I took this path, slinging the tree, and running it out to the upper trees without protection. The double belay anchor shown in the map is not there, so don't bother looking for it. I have also read that the route goes straight up from the belays at the top of the third pitch and heads directly to the trees at the top, staying above the corner.

This was the last of three full leads today, switching partners on this one. The route starts between Rainy Day Women and Adrift. The first bolt is shared with Adrift and commonly clipped for Yardarm also. From here, the route can be difficult to follow. Climb up slightly left from the first bolt to another bolt. The bolts on the right belong to Adrift. From there, either climb straight up to the third bolt and belay from the single bolt or use the belay on Rainy Day Women. I chose to use the belay on Rainy Day Women for the first pitch, making the second pitch fairly long. Be sure to traverse back to the right when finished with the belay until you are under the third bolt. Head straight up to the bolt on easier terrain. You will be taking a straight line from here to the second pitch belay on Yardarm. The next bolt will be found in some loose, flaky rock. Be very aware of your footing. Try to stay to the right until reaching the bolt. The rest of the climbing up to the Yardarm belay is fairly moderate and shouldn't pose much of a problem. Finish on Yardarm or Rap from here.

I have climbed this route multiple times in the past and lead all three pitches today for a friend that had never been on it before. It is easy but still fun. The best part was that the entire route was shaded. It was probably about 5:30 to 6:00 PM when we started.

The crack will accept all the pro that you want to throw at it if you feel that you need it. For the first pitch, I slung a single tree for pro and two trees on the second pitch but placed no other pro. I made it a point to not use the trees for holds and used the slab to the right when needed. On the third pitch, I ran it out to the top without placing protection. Due to the low angle of the rock, I didn't bother with the crack on the third pitch and just climbed the slab. I made three raps from the belays on Bombay Groove to reach the tree ledge with a single 70 M rope.

Lead route at the request of my climbing partner, she prefers this route over the other access routes for the tree ledge. The block move does make this route worthwhile. We climbed the Great Arch afterwards, then I climbed Banana Breath with her husband (my usual climbing partner).

The heat this time of year is really not that bad as long as you stay hydrated. The warmth of the rock also helps my shoes to stick better. (Update on 8-21: I take back my statement about my shoes sticking better. Later on in the year, when it got hotter, I actually had less traction.)

This was my third route of the day and it was the most difficult. The climbing down low was quite slick and made it a bit interesting. The first two anchors head slightly right to the first belay. Be careful climbing around the white splotches, there is a lot of loose rock in these areas. I used the outside edges for finger holds and sometimes footholds. My partner slipped several times down low on this route but had little trouble up higher. From the first belay, head up and left to the single bolt. From there, go straight up to the belay. There is some interesting rock above the bolt. You will have to head into the splotches but there are many jugs and flakes for holds. When leaving the second belay, the next bolt is up to the right. It is lower than it appears in the guidbook. From there, follow the dark streak on excellent holds up to a ledge and head up past some flakes to the left and angle left towards the Mercury's Lead/Storm in a Teacup shared anchors. Finish to the top of the Arch or rap back down.

Other than the heat, this is actually a fairly easy climb. It is very similar to Mercury's Lead and is the first route to the right of Mercury's Lead. Follow a straight line past three bolts to the belay in what is referred to as the J hook. This belay is often used as a belay for Mercury's lead also. Move out right from the belay and head straight up for the second belay on Mercury's Lead with no protection. You can finish by continuing to the top of the Arch on very easy terrain, or rap from the belay.

The climbing itself can be tricky at times. There are ample mini-ledges along the way that provide excellent holds. Just be aware of your footwork and try to keep constant forward momentum. There are a few patches of loose stone to watch out for. When I climb this type of rock, I point one foot forward and the other sideways for maximum traction. If I point both feet forward, I always tend to loose traction. Try to make sure that you have a decent handhold on one of the mini ledges to keep from falling if your feet give out.

After a day of toproping some of my friends on the Block Route while waiting on my climbing partner to arrive, this was the first of three routes we chose for the day. Its great climbing in June, very few climbers and no waiting for routes. We were the only climbers on the rock and it was a Saturday.

I started just to the right of the tree pods and climbed straight up to the dikes that are angled up to the right. I didn't bother with the bolt, it seems too far out of place. The first time I climbed the route, I climbed more to the right and used the bolt but I no longer bother with it since the holds are so good at the dikes. I followed the dikes up to the overlap and set a cam underneath it as my first protection. This may seem a bit too far to go without protection, but again, the holds are so nice that I had no fear of falling. After setting the cam, I headed up over the overlap and headed towards the next bolt. From there, just head straight up to the Rice Krispies belay. The guidebook shows the route going to the left of here but there is nothing but vegetation and downed trees between the Rice Krispies belay and the belay for U-Slot. You should have litle trouble with this route. I recommend lead climbing these routes, toproping does not do them justice.

I believe this was originally the first pitch of Great White Way. The start is uphill from the Block Route and is a little bit of a scramble. It starts below some dikes and heads up slightly right past two bolts, eventually ending up beneath the Great White Way. There are many alternative paths that may be taken along the way. There is quite a bit of rock between this route and the Block route. I had to rap back down afterwards to get something and took another, unprotected line back to the top just to make it more interesting.

Second time leading but with a new partner. Even though she doesn't like slab, she didn't slip even once or need any assistance. The line is fairly obvious, but there are two routes that share the first belay above the flake. Be sure to go slightly left towards the Arch, the route leading off to the right is Closer to the Heart. The bolts are easily seen from the belay.

With a decent pair of climbing shoes, there should be no difficulties. Just remember to keep your shoes clean and try to avoid the whitish splotches with loose rock.

This was the first of three climbs for the day. I have already climbed this route many times, mostly to make it easier on my climbing partner. I really find it difficult to grade this route more than a 5.6, even with the "block" move. I climb unprotected until the set of belay anchors at the small pine tree, clip into one of the belay anchors and continue up to the corner where the single difficult move is located. Then, I will place one or two cams to protect the crux. Those who prefer more protection will have plenty of opportunities to place nuts or cams along the way. For the block move, climb as high into the corner as possible, place your right foot up onto the short arete and grab any of several hand holds. Pull yourself up onto the ledge while shifting weight to your right foot. That's it, then continue to the top. I have yet to have anyone not be able to make the move.