okieterry's Logbook (218 ascents)

We were heading to the frog mid afternoon on a hot August day when I sat down to put the shoes on and boulder. Da, I forgot my shoes. I walked jogged my way to the car and back while my baby relaxed and played solitaire in the shade. Then went up mostly middle/right side of obvious slab. First couple of moves are slick then very fun. Slight lack of handholds near top adds some spice. We did middle and then left route too.

Vonda and I had a lot of fun climbing this route on a hot day - nearly 100 degrees in Mazama reported. We started early and climbed in the shade with a nice breeze until the last couple of pitches, when the sun hit us. It was hot but not unbearable on the way down. We had each brought 2 liters of water and both ran out about halfway down. The rapping was heinous because of all of the loose rock on the ledges. Next time, we will definitely have a car or bike to get down. To me, there just seemed to be one 5.9 move on the climb (traverse move on the last pitch), but there was lots of very enjoyable 5.7 and 5.8 climbing. Two Arkansasians (Adams and Lynn) were a couple of pitches behind us all day and had a good time also.

My wife and I hurried on this one as a storm was coming. We loved it! I didn't notice any loose or chossy sections but the climbing was varied and sustained.

the rock on this climb is so good! a little bat urine on the left wall couldn't ruin it. i think the gear beta is a little off. I used 4 yellow TCU sized cams.

after trying this route unsuccessfully a few times over the past couple of years, i finally figured it out. none of this acrobatic inverted stuff for me. i solved it with a move that i've never had to do in 35 years of climbing!

Hard move for me was transitioning into lieback after getting the solid jam. Top section is the stuff of horrors.

and I liked it a lot - although next time I will save a really small cam for the last few moves (like a 00 TCU)

nice crack - jammed the whole way.

I led it first,then Ryan, then Thomas. We thought we were doing something new (ground up leads - no top roping). We named it "The Sardine Effect".

placed a #4 camalot about half way and then a #6 camalot about 3/4 of the way and cruised to top. nice and clean.