rjbonz's Logbook (15 ascents)

Ascended both variations. The cracks eat the passive gear.

This is a really fun route!

From the parking lot, take the main trail to the outlook. Turn right. After a few minutes, there is a secondary trail that leads to a lot. You can down climb the left side of this slot, which is called Alfred's Gully. Descend here. Go right. Walk past Alfred's Wall (bolts everywhere). Pass the Central Gully Area.You will come to a prominent buttress. The middle of the buttress has an overhand. The left side of this buttress has a left facing corner. The base of this corner has a yellow painted '6.' This is Helmut's. The route itself goes over solid rock. The climber must make a traverse right to get to the anchors. This is a good quality trad route.

Descend Alfred's Gulley. Turn left, going north. Look to your left. You will see a line of weakness on the right side of an otherwise not very featured wall. This is Crazy Legs. Ascend the line of weakness. Traverse left to the Anchors. This is an excellent route for the introductory trad climber. Straight forward climbing. There are many features to navigate and protect, making it good for gear management practice.

The Seneca guide says that the route is 2 pitches: the first pitch is to the Bee Sting corner Ledge; 2nd pitch, to Lower Broadway. If there is a 2nd pitch, then it is RX. We did the "1st' pitch. The first half of the 1st pitch is well bolted and one can do just this section, because there are cold shuts half way up the route. The second half of the first pitch has two options. Either you climb the run out face or you can traverse 11 o'clock and pull an overhang. We did the overhang. The protection is all there and it is advisable to protect at every opportunity, because this area has some loose rock. The climbing above the overhang is easy, 5.4-ish.

It is a good route, potentially worthy of a few stars if it were not for the loose rock.

R