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rockandlice's Logbook (101 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (21)



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Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Bridge Area Crags: Central Bridge Wall

The Hopfenperle Special Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rockandlice on 2009-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Hidden little Gem

We wrapped a solid day up on this climb and it was the perfect end to the day. Fun, easily protected, and a fairly exciting finish.

Added: 2009-10-12

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Bridge Area Crags: South Bridge Wall

In Tribute to Skid Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rockandlice on 2009-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Pretty Obscure, for good reason.

I agree with mjwestla for the most part, except the begining. I slotted a blue TCU lower in the not-even-tips crack that was actually pretty bomber, and then a nut at the bottom of a wider spot that still alowed a solid finger lock above. The move directly up was more technical, but better protected than using the ledges to the left and traversing back in.

This was the most challenging climb of the day for me. Way harder on lead than Zag and Where Real men dare. I stood confused at the roof move for quite a bit before finally commiting and pulling through. Sloped and dirty!

Added: 2009-10-12

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Bridge Area Crags: South Bridge Wall

Where Real Men Dare Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rockandlice on 2009-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars One fine onsight

I found the toughest part of the lead was getting good gear at the roof without burning up some of my bigger cams for higher up, all the while not being able to put all my weight on my feet to suss it out. I ended up with two cams equalized at the lip of the roof for my first pieces and then cruised on. The actual crux moves where in the middle in the short vertical section. A couple of moves and it's over. Placed a #5 at the top to protect the offwidth which was still fairly easy climbing. I felt it was a solid climb to onsight though.

Added: 2009-10-12

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Bridge Area Crags: Bridge Buttress

Horton's Tree Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rockandlice on 2009-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Short, easy and pretty uneventful

Climbed this after a couple days of rain and the whole crack was seaping wet, so maybe I'm not a good judge. We used this as a warm up before hitting Zag. I was a little gripped from dealing with the slickness of the finger jams. Still not too difficult wet though.

Added: 2009-10-12

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Bridge Area Crags: Bridge Buttress

Zag popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rockandlice on 2009-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Come on folks

This route is not that tricky, but certainly a true classic. I had heard stories of how polished it was, and found that to be far from true. Climbed the morning after 2 days of rain. Gear is bomber, with excellent stances to place from. Don't let the rumors scare you off from giving it a go. Great route route to onsight.

Added: 2009-10-12

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Endless Wall: Fern Point to Nutall Slabs

Upheaval Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: rockandlice on 2009-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Agree with the description

This one is much more technical and challenging than Totally Clipse. Definitely a solid 5.9 and a somewhat thoughtful onsight. We used this as out climb out for the day since it has a short 3rd/4th class section above the anchors to top out.

Added: 2009-10-12

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Endless Wall: Fern Point to Nutall Slabs

Total-E-Clipse Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rockandlice on 2009-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Felt easier then 5.8

Cruiser slab with no real discernable crux. Felt a bit more like 5.6. A quick and easy warm up I suppose. Excellent rock per usual however.

Added: 2009-10-12

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Endless Wall: Nutall Slabs to HoneyMooner

Strike a Scowl *** popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rockandlice on 2009-10-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars How did I ever manage to avoid this classic for so long?

I climbed at the new loads when I was a youngster, and always wanted to take a swing at this one, but it just never was convenient. Finally, a dozen or so years later, I got my chance. Wow, this is a classic line through and through. It's almost like mother nature asked me what would be a quintessential 10b and set the route accordingly. Just get on this damn thing if you are in the area, no maybe's, do it!

Added: 2009-10-02

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Endless Wall: Honeymooners to Fantasy Roof

Muckraker Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: rockandlice on 2009-10-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Took two falls, well worth it to come back to.

Hope to go back for the redpoint. I took two falls through the crux section. Pretty sequency with lots of great slopers and balance moves.

Added: 2009-10-02

Routes: North America: United States: West Virginia: Roped Climbing: New River Gorge Region: New River & Tributaries: Endless Wall: Honeymooners to Fantasy Roof

Doce Doe Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rockandlice on 2009-10-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Loads of fun with an exciting finish.

Beatiful moderate corner line to an exciting crux exit!

Added: 2009-10-02

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