stroker's Logbook (56 ascents)

This route is \"fun weirdness.\" Make sure to have 40 biners for the route, a few rivet hangers, one tie-off, and a helmet. If you are doing it with a partner, you may want to break it up into two pitches. Stop at the hanging belay, then go to the register. From the register to the true summit is actually about 25\' of exciting climbing. I feel this should be counted as a pitch. So with a partner, break it up in three pitches. Bring a long piece of webbing (about 12\') to sling the anchor on the true summit. Make sure to take EXIT 169 to find this spire!

Here's descpitive beta to this fun route. PITCH ONE: Climb straight up to the chimney/slot (5.9) or start left about 20' which is 5.6 then traverse right to the base of the chimney/slot. If going the 5.6 way, protect the traverse with a orange metolius/red alien. Place a 3.5" cam at the start of the slot, then wiggle up. About 12' up the slot, place a 1" cam in a sugar crack on the left side (toward Fuita). Wiggle and face climb to a belay with a drilled angle and wedged rope. PITCH TWO: Tunnel on your hands and knees for about 15' then climb up a chimney with solid rock (5.6). Gain the pre-summit ledge then set a belay with a orange metolius/red alien, and a 3.5" friend. The 3.5" cam is about 7'above the ledge. I'm sure that people skip this belay, but why hurry and give youself rope drag? PITCH THREE: Climb up past the 3.5" cam while arching left through a few hueco/handlebars. You can loop a sling around a semi-solid handlebar if you want to. Above these, go up and right via slab moves to the summit. DESCENT: Rappel with one rope back into the tunnel then crawl back to pitch ones anchor. Afterwards take one more rappel to the ground. You can drop the whole formation with two ropes, if you want to lug up another cord. GEAR: one orange metolius or red alien (two of these if you take the 5.6 start), one 3.5 camalot, a sling or two. If you don't like runouts bring one 3" cam also. This route requires less gear than a clip-up at Rifle. BRING HELMETS!

BEER!!! Get some and climb this thing. Bring some rocks to the top, so you can add to the summit cairn. -tda

splendid route, bring two ropes, a range of cams to 3.5

I felt this route was better than "Carters Dihedral" I think I would rate it 5.7ish. A leader must be solid on the bottom, because a fall getting to the crack could provide dangerous consequences. There isn't need to tow large cams. All you need is a quickdraw, a long quickdraw, and orange meloius up to 3" friends.

I enjoyed this route, much more than the Standard Thumb. Actually, I felt it to be almost as fun as the S Direct. If you use the AntiGroove Variation, you can avoid the flakey, groove that will decrease the quality of the route. I highly suggest this route to everybody. The more this gets climbed, the better It'll get. Make sure you bring a hand drill, to replace the bolts on this. There are only four bolts on the route, and the top one might not bust or maybe it will. The moves above the semi-hanging belay are freaky because the belay bolts are crud. Lets let the A.S.C.A. know about these, and they can use our donations to fix a kick-ass route. Spring Fever has another ZION CURTAIN!!! need I say more?
-Troy Anderson

p.s. Ellison kicks ass.

This route is really fun. Actually, it is surprisingly fun! A little loose higher up, but nothing to worry about.

I watched Fruehauf Garcia get the second ascent of this really fun boulder aid route. You'll get surprised at the lip, when you need to place a hook instead of clipping bolts. This route accually surpasses that of the recently destroyed "Wave". Much more enjoyable, with much less of an approach.

My wife and I got engaged after climbing this route, then hiking to the top of Whiskey Peak. This route was awesome. Every pitch was worthy, and the exposure was great. I was damn glad to be the only party on this route, when I looked at the Prince of Darkness and Dream of Wild Turkeys. Those routes looked like a mosh pit. The urioustes had great vision in the Red Rock area. Bring one rope, some light hiking shoes, and bust it. I lost an old Choinard #2 cam on the third to last pitch. If you see it think of me. A number #4 camalot was very usefull. I was psyched I towed it along. I didn't find any need to bring stoppers. Just a single set of t.c.u.'s and doubles on #2.5,#3,#3.5, friends. Quickdraws need to come along also. Try to allot enought time to descend in the daylight. If you're not familiar with the descent, I'd suggest lighting a bondfire on the west side of Wiskey Peak, and waiting till sun up. This way, nobody will see the blaze, and you won't epic. Remember: the less you bring, the faster you'll go.

-troy anderson

Fun little route. I would suggest that this route logs in at 5.7 If there was a fixed anchor on the top to lower off of, this route would be funner. I felt that the walk-off wasn't justified by the route.