tyler's Logbook (43 ascents)

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1 of 52 of 53 of 54 of 55 of 5

Ghastly Rubberfat Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.10a
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: tyler on 2017-12-02 (View Climbing Log)

Moderately Fun

Felt more like 5.9, or maybe .10- per "modern" climbing standards. Very safe (i.e. good bolts, closely spaced). There is an Africanized Bee hive (killer bees) maybe 50 feet to the right of the route, and 30 feet from the ground. My wife upset them as we prepared to climb the multi-pitch route to the right (can't remember name). Beware...

Added: 2017-12-02

The Soft Parade Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: tyler on 2016-10-27 (View Climbing Log)

Fun, maybe a little easier than rated

I eyeballed it without looking at the guide -- i.e. without knowing the rating -- and laced up my shoes. My wife looked at the guide and in so many words said, "You're probably not going to be able to do this onsite. Do you want to know the rating?" I said 'no', and that I felt pretty confident from how it looked. I was right. It was challenging, but not desperate. I therefore believe it to be more like 10+, not 11b. Especially with the no-hands rests, as others have mentioned.

Added: 2017-09-23

The Devil Made Me Do It Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.9
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: tyler on 2016-10-22 (View Climbing Log)

Under Rated

Like other climbers have said, it's more like 5.9, and for people even shorter than myself, 5.10 would be fair.

Added: 2016-10-22

Handsome Devil Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.10c
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: tyler on 2016-10-15 (View Climbing Log)

Decent route, hard on rope

Like the previous poster said, this route is hard on your rope. Best case scenario, everything goes fine but you'll put 10 climbs worth of abrasion onto your rope just from pulling the rope down when you're done. Worst case scenario, you'll do like we did, and get your rope completely stuck trying to pull it down. Recovering the rope was a major pain in the ass. In fact, unless your rope is going to be replaced soon anyway, just climb another route.

Added: 2016-10-15

Sir Charles Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: tyler on 2016-10-11 (View Climbing Log)

Really Fun

I don't know why, but I really had fun on this one. It's pretty much the same as any other route in Atlantis, but for some reason I thought it was really fun. Had nothing to do with how I was climbing, as I was hitting everything that day. Might be more like .9+. Regardless, really fun.

Added: 2016-10-11

Feast and Famine Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty	5.10d
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: tyler on 2016-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

Fun

I missed the onsite the weekend before. Got the redpoint this past weekend. Being confident in my ratings judgement and having found the easiest sequence that is still true to the bolt line, I'd rate this at more like .10d or .10+

Added: 2016-10-11

KGB Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: tyler on 2016-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

Fun

Spoiler alert: The crux is moving from the final bolt to the chains. Low to Zero fall consequence at that point, so go for it! If you maintain center of gravity absolutely over the bolt line, you're looking at an .11+ crux. If you move center of gravity about 1 1/2 ft to the right, to a left-angling seam, you keep the rating at .10b. A crusty older climber that was there told me that, and I agree with him. I inspected said options.

Added: 2016-10-11

The Mighty Barge Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: tyler on 2016-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

Quite fun

First pitch = .10b sport, second pitch = 5.5 trad. More exposure and better scenery than down in the Atlantis canyon. I did manage to knock a pizza-slice sized flake off by barely hitting it with my helmet. Luckily it missed my belayer. I'd recommend belaying to the right, rather than directly underneath the leader. This climb might not get enough ascents to be fully cleaned of its loose/dangerous exfoliates.

Added: 2016-10-11

Impending Doom Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: tyler on 2016-10-02 (View Climbing Log)

Fun

.

Added: 2016-10-11

Grumpy after Eight Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
Difficulty
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: tyler on 2016-10-02 (View Climbing Log)

Fun

Might be more like .9+

Added: 2016-10-11

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