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yay_chris's Logbook (138 ascents)

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Routes: North America: Canada: Ontario: Golden Horseshoe: Mount Nemo: The Club Wall, aka Alfred Wall

Crazy Legs Ale Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: yay_chris on 2009-06-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Solid climb.

The obvious crack just to the right of Lost in the Forest. Takes good pro and has interesting moves. Very enjoyable.

Added: 2009-06-12

Routes: North America: Canada: Ontario: Eastern Ontario: Luskville: The Gallery - Face Climb Area

Slab and Crack Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: yay_chris on 2009-06-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great climb for the beginning leader.

A very nice short 5.1 that surprisingly isn't a ledge-fest. The splitter crack is interesting. The tree at the top makes a good belay.

Added: 2009-06-08

Routes: North America: Canada: Ontario: Eastern Ontario: Luskville: The Gallery - Face Climb Area

Face Climb Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: yay_chris on 2009-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars I'm glad its mixed and not fully bolted

This is a commiting route with good protection, and is definitely well-worth the hike in. The lone bolt protects the tricky crux. The crux is the next 6 feet of very flat face climbing after the bolt which to me felt like hard 5.9. After the crux, you meet a flake which takes good gear. I placed a #12 stopper and a #0.75 camalot as backup. Rap anchors are at the top.

Added: 2009-06-08

Routes: North America: Canada: Ontario: Eastern Ontario: Luskville: The Gallery - Face Climb Area

Corner Crack Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: yay_chris on 2009-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Looks better than it climbs.

I didn't like this route. There is a bush that gets in the way right before the part where the climb splits. Just before the bush is about 8 feet of off-width that I couldnt protect (#3.5 camalot didnt fit). I ran it out, plugged in 2 small cams left of the bush and finshed using the right 'facey' variation that offers no protection. The guidebook doesnt 'star' the route and now I see why.

Added: 2009-06-08

Routes: North America: Canada: Ontario: Central Ontario: Metcalfe: Central Area

Agitez Bien *** Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: yay_chris on 2009-05-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars OMFG. BEST. ROUTE. EVER.

I seconded this beast. Had to sit on the fixed nut at the crux and come to terms with the exposure. Now I hate myself for it. Its not as hard as it looks! The moves definitely go.... and if you find the holds you are GOLD. Only possible complaint was the water near the top... but hey... its spring.

Added: 2009-05-03

Routes: North America: Canada: Ontario: Central Ontario: Metcalfe: Overhanging Wall

White of Spring popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: yay_chris on 2009-05-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Finally. A trad climb that feels like sport.

Did the runout finish to the left as per the guidebook. Next time on lead.

Added: 2009-05-03

Routes: North America: Canada: Ontario: Central Ontario: Metcalfe: Metcalfe North-The Rubble Heap

Waco Lies (Not sure) popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: yay_chris on 2009-05-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Very cool crux. The rest is meh.

The finger-crack layback crux will spit off the unsuspecting climber. Dare I say 5.9? Yep. First sport lead of the day... great warm-up.

Added: 2009-05-03

Routes: North America: Canada: Ontario: Central Ontario: Metcalfe: Metcalfe North-The Rubble Heap

Deception Day (Not sure) Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: yay_chris on 2009-05-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A beautiful climb. Reminds me of Kamouraska, QC.

My favourite type of climb - long, juggy, great feet, and plenty of rests. If this was located at Mt. Nemo. you would never be able to get on it.

Added: 2009-05-03

Routes: North America: Canada: Ontario: Golden Horseshoe: Bottle Glass Cliff: Pinnacle Area

Bottle Glass Pinnacle Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: yay_chris on 2009-04-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Very nice layback flake

Sent on trad. Crux takes #3 ~ #3.5 camalots. I really enjoyed this route, and found the flake sequence to be very cool on lead. 2 Stars.

Added: 2009-04-25

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Bruise Brothers Wall

Flutterby Blue Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: yay_chris on 2009-04-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Excellent sequence.

What a starting move! The beta to the right of the climb definitely goes at 5.9. After that, very nice cranks to the anchors. Well done Kentucky. Well done.

Added: 2009-04-23

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