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East Ridge - 5.3

Average Rating = 4.80/5 Average Rating : 4.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Rock
Light Alpine Rack, crampons, ice axe for summit
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.3
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.20/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.80/5
  Fun Factor 4.60/5

Description:

Classic long Canadian Rockies alpine ridge on big picturesque peak. Approach from the parking lot following moraines to beneath the col. Much easier trails and snowfields ascend the left side of the basin (possible w/o crampons in right conditions -- such as this year -- late 2003). Easy direct snowfield w/ crampons and axe. From the col (bivy sites) ascend the first buttress of the ridge by various ledges, generally staying out of gulleys (or crossing near the tops of these). Near the top of the first buttress snow may be encountered. Plenty of loose rock in this first section and loads of 3rd and 4th class climbing. Cross the somewhat level ridge to the base of the 2nd buttress of the ridge and follow mostly steep but cleaner scrambling with several 5th class sections (given 5.3 in the guidebook) to the summit ridge. The second buttress has much cleaner rock when you are on route, yet loads of loose rock exist just to the side of the ridge (the line generally stays close to the ridge). The second summit is purportedly taller than the first. The entire route would be difficult under wet conditions and epic under verglas conditions. Either descend the route or scramble down the W ridge (3rd or 4th class scrambling with plenty of dead end options -- descending the climbing route w/ some rappels may be a better option). Descending down west ridge to Verdant Pass is less commiting and you won't be rapelling on climbers still going down the east ridge. If in doubt keep trending right on the west bowl for easiest decent.

Submitted by: pumpout on 2006-09-10
Views: 947
Route ID: 39553

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11 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: jasminelux on 2009-08-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Tough, long day

This peak was clear for 6 weeks, and we caught the second day it snowed, or more blizzared... better luck next time

Added: 2010-06-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.3
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clews on 2009-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars cavel

very nice route

still covered in snow when we did it and were forced to rope the whole ridge

Added: 2009-08-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: nmcan84 on 2009-08-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars nice climb

i found it easier than expected
i would consider doing it solo under good conditions.

11.25 hours car to car w ridge descent

weather came in right after we got to car. Great Day!!!

Added: 2009-08-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.3
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: the_climber on 2005-08-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Spectacular climb

Bluebird skies fo rthe first half, blizard for the second half. More or less full winter conditions in the middle of summer. Great climb... just wish I could have seen the view form the top.

Added: 2009-06-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: smith_curry on 2002-08-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars free solo

12 hrs after getting off the plane.....CLASSIC ROUTE!!!!! 7 hrs to summit (maybe quicker if I'd acclimatized)

Added: 2006-12-25

... Read all 11 ascent notes