Classic long Canadian Rockies alpine ridge on big picturesque peak. Approach from the parking lot following moraines to beneath the col. Much easier trails and snowfields ascend the left side of the basin (possible w/o crampons in right conditions -- such as this year -- late 2003). Easy direct snowfield w/ crampons and axe.
From the col (bivy sites) ascend the first buttress of the ridge by various ledges, generally staying out of gulleys (or crossing near the tops of these). Near the top of the first buttress snow may be encountered. Plenty of loose rock in this first section and loads of 3rd and 4th class climbing. Cross the somewhat level ridge to the base of the 2nd buttress of the ridge and follow mostly steep but cleaner scrambling with several 5th class sections (given 5.3 in the guidebook) to the summit ridge. The second buttress has much cleaner rock when you are on route, yet loads of loose rock exist just to the side of the ridge (the line generally stays close to the ridge). The second summit is purportedly taller than the first. The entire route would be difficult under wet conditions and epic under verglas conditions.
Either descend the route or scramble down the W ridge (3rd or 4th class scrambling with plenty of dead end options -- descending the climbing route w/ some rappels may be a better option).
Descending down west ridge to Verdant Pass is less commiting and you won't be rapelling on climbers still going down the east ridge. If in doubt keep trending right on the west bowl for easiest decent.
Submitted by: pumpout on 2006-09-10
Route ID: 39553