Skip to Content

Devil's Tongue - 5.12a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.67/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

(5.12a / 3 pitches / 300ft) Climb the first route on the Club Mex Wall. This route climbs to the lower of the two prominent stacked dihedrals, or hash marks on the South Face. P1 (5.12a / 115ft / fixed belay) Climb technical black rock to a flake system that waves and narrows to a point reminiscent of a demonic tongue. The crux is gaining the tongue flake. When standing on the tip of the tongue, puzzle out where to pull the roof above (2nd crux) and pull to the belay. P2 (5.11d / 100ft / fixed belay) Climb the twin tufas. Strange, somewhat off-balance face climbing leads to the base of twin tufas. Leverage both tufas and pull to an awkward stance at the base of the columnar slanting dihedral. P3 (5.9 / 80ft / shares 3rd pitch belay with Thunderkiss) Climb the cool slanting plank. Future plans are in the works to push the route to the summit. (FA: Jimmy Ray Forester, Dane Bass, Rick Ross, Scott Hamilton)

Submitted by: jimmyray on 2006-08-17
Views: 833
Route ID: 79031

Most Recent Photo

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2011-12-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars good route

A great route with three distinct cruxes. First, thin face, second, pulling a roof. Third, a transfer on somewhat grotty tufas. The route stops on the 11 D pitch of thunder kiss.

Added: 2011-12-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: rmcclmbr on 2009-01-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Good tongueing

This was my FAVOURITE route in Potrero! freakin awesome!!! Crimpy at the start, and very sequency and technical climbing up to the tongue. I ALMOST had an onsight, but I wasn't sure if I was to go left or right at the last bolt on the dihedral...I went the wrong direction and fell...when I pulled myself back up to the bolt, I saw a tick mark I originally missed, and then flashed the last section...what a piss off. lol, The second pitch (11d) is also spectacular. I didn't get to do the third pitch unfortunately.

Added: 2009-03-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kyber on 2007-12-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars stealler!

actually got this last year but i wasnt really logging then so i went back and got it again cause its just so dang good!

Added: 2007-12-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jimmyray on 2006-10-31 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-10-31