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Arctic Express - WI4

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(Toprope) Ice
Top Rope by looping rope over the top of the pipe. The pipe is very slick and does not provide much friction so wrapping another loop over the pipe is advisable. Due to location of wrap-able pipe, pendulum swing may occur in the event of fall, though se
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This climb ascends the north facing aspect of the Realm of Refuse pillar. The north side of the pillar faces the village though you cannot see Kaktovik until you reach the top of the climb depending on the size of the snow drifts encompassing the Realm of Refuse. Most years this is a 85-90 degree ice climb. On years when prevailing winds come from the west-northwest this has some of the most solid ice on the pillar, though Realm of Refuse ice is always brittle due to arctic climate. Leeward years have more ice cycles and weaker ice on this climb.

Descent Options:

By belay. Down climb. Balance on pipe for 30ft traverse to tundra... quite tricky.

Submitted by: wyofreeze on 2011-01-18
Views: 303
Route ID: 107751