These are both pretty good routes although neither worth quite the praise Miramontes guide gives them in my opinion. They are both more interesting from the slab perspective than the shared crack. The start is not as bad as some have stated in terms of being polished, etc. If you want the start protected, step on your partners knee and place a small wire at the base of the crack. After the initial strenuous high step slab and crimps, the crack is easy going until the routes split onto bolts. It is all bolts after that. The left side has a finger rail feature for the left hand. Throwing your left foot up onto the horizontal while grabbing this rib is the key to the crux move. The right side route is a bit more difficult in my opinion (but closer bolts). Typical Jtree slab from there.
Really loved this climb.. I did not find the start difficult or cruxy at all, although apparently others do. There are great slab moves higher on the route, but they are well protected, and the route offers some fun / tricky surprises with straightforward gear -- quite a memorable climb.