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Bird on a Wire - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.32/5 Average Rating : 4.32 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 14
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (44)
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Rock (Trad)
3
Thin to 2.5", gear anchors
360
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.93/5
  Rock Quality 4.43/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.64/5

Description:

Excellent three-pitch climb; can be done in two. More so face climbing with good crack pro. A short first pitch leads up to spacious belay ledge. Possible to belay there or continue on. Second pitch starts up crack that leads up to the black patina plates, then to the prominent right arching thin crack that has a long section previously protectable only by stoppers that gave the name to the route (if you fall you fly like a bird), passing two closely placed bolts. Set belay near or above the end of the right arching crack. Try not to cris-cross with parties on The Swift to the left or on Dappled Mare to the right. Two or three possible ways to continue to the top, all rated about the same. Just pick one that wouldn't lead to crossing ropes with other parties.

Note: Originally, there was only 1 bolt protecting the crux, which has since been replaced, along with the addition of a slightly higher bolt placed without consent of the FA party. If you choose to belay at the two closely spaced bolts, be aware of the sparse pro at the start of the resulting next pitch and a possible factor 2 fall or a fall directly onto the belayer.

Descent Options:

Walk off to climber's right down main gully.

Submitted by: graniteboy on 2001-12-01
Last Modified: 2008-01-15
Views: 1442
Route ID: 6213

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44 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: slavetogravity on 2012-02-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars blue sky, warm rock, happy to be here.

awsome.

Added: 2012-02-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: smd0827 on 2011-12-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Bird on a Wire

Very fun... it intersects Dappled Mare though... so you can have traffic.

Added: 2011-12-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2011-12-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Bird on a Wire

Great route. Combined with Dappled Mare for two laps on the wall before finishing off a short winter day back at Intersection Rock. Very warm south facing wall. Second pitch is awesome. Crux is a shallow finger crack right above an intermittent belay that I passed up to set up a gear belay when it intersected Dappled Mare. I prefer the right crack towards the top for the finish. Makes for another decent pitch that way. With Joe K.

Added: 2011-12-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cobbledik on 2011-10-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Soft for grade

If you can climb at the grade, don't bother roping up for the first "pitch", flip flops and gear still in our bags was fine

Added: 2011-10-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2011-03-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sweet Moves

Way soft but really fun climbing. I would say the bolted belay is in a great place for taking falls on your belayer. If you belay from the large ledge after the arching crack and then lead to where the to cracks converge about 50 feet above the bolted belay you can avoid a factor 2 and I think it splits up better that way. Watched a guy take a good size whipper after the crux and almost land on his belayer. Soft for the grade.

Added: 2011-03-25

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