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Dangling Woo Li Master - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.08/5 Average Rating : 4.08 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 30
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (25)
Rock (Trad)
1
Pro to 4", gear anchor with 1 bolt
80
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.75/5
  Rock Quality 4.25/5
  Scenery 3.75/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Second crack on left. Corner start, then face holds up and left to fist-to-hand crack that slants left toward topout.

Descent Options:

Rap from atop Book of Changes. 60 m rope just makes it.

Submitted by: artm on 2005-11-28
Last Modified: 2007-02-27
Views: 316
Route ID: 13838

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25 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gregory_huey on 2009-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Route

I was a bit worried looking from the ground if I could pull off a big stem - presumably the crux. However, entering and exiting the stem isn't as hard as I'd expected. The hand crack was pretty sweet. This was the third level 3 route off the SCMA crack list I led this weekend, but the first one I got clean - so that was nice. This grotto, though a pain in the butt to get to, has a very high concentration of great routes. While you're here do Book of Changes/Sanctuary, Caught Inside on a Big Set and Morning Thunder (which looks difficult to me). This place would be high-traffic if it were easier to get to. Also, some aggressive ants attacked anything we left on the ground - even smelly shoes & socks - finally we hung our packs along the wall with pro. BTW, this route gets good later-day sun in the winter, and the grotto walls reduce the wind.

Added: 2009-03-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: machino on 2009-01-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Dangling Woo Li Master

Best 10a of my life. Props JP.

Added: 2009-01-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2008-11-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun overhanging route

Great route with powerful-feeling overhanging positions. Creative pro possibilities. Stopper cracks and horn slinging.

Added: 2008-11-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: radioface on 2008-01-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Neato

More of a face climb crux. Subtle body english will get you through it without huffing and puffing. The top wider crack is sharp and splitter. Good gear but you have to look around.

Added: 2008-01-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: metatarsal-over-muscle on 2007-11-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars This climb is more fun than caught inside on a big set

fun bouldery crux moves. Not as fluid as caught inside on a big set, but more fun.

Added: 2007-12-18

... Read all 25 ascent notes