Dangling Woo Li Master - 5.10a

One of the better trad pitches in Jtree, not to mention one of the top two settings in the whole park (Valley of the Kings being the other). This is a thoughtful lead. On 2nd it goes much easier. Due to the early awkard traverse, placing gear can get pumpy. A couple of small/micro pieces protect the traverse. Next up a slung horn was key for me. Then stem up to a restful hand jam up and right in the black rock. Then traverse left again and mantle up to the fist/large hand flaring crack. Eases way up after that. Rap is to the right. One fixed bolt with quick link above the route as well. With Chad from CA.

awesome

Not a favorite, but fun.

I was a bit worried looking from the ground if I could pull off a big stem - presumably the crux. However, entering and exiting the stem isn't as hard as I'd expected. The hand crack was pretty sweet. This was the third level 3 route off the SCMA crack list I led this weekend, but the first one I got clean - so that was nice. This grotto, though a pain in the butt to get to, has a very high concentration of great routes. While you're here do Book of Changes/Sanctuary, Caught Inside on a Big Set and Morning Thunder (which looks difficult to me). This place would be high-traffic if it were easier to get to. Also, some aggressive ants attacked anything we left on the ground - even smelly shoes & socks - finally we hung our packs along the wall with pro. BTW, this route gets good later-day sun in the winter, and the grotto walls reduce the wind.

Best 10a of my life. Props JP.