Skip to Content

Dangling Woo Li Master - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.07/5 Average Rating : 4.07 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 30
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (28)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock (Trad)
1
Pro to 4", gear anchor with 1 bolt
80
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.78/5
  Rock Quality 4.22/5
  Scenery 3.89/5
  Fun Factor 4.56/5

Description:

Second crack on left. Corner start, then face holds up and left to fist-to-hand crack that slants left toward topout.

Descent Options:

Rap from atop Book of Changes. 60 m rope just makes it.

Submitted by: artm on 2005-11-28
Last Modified: 2007-02-27
Views: 951
Route ID: 13838

Topo Image

Most Recent Photos

28 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 28 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2013-01-31 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Dangling Woo Li Master

One of the better trad pitches in Jtree, not to mention one of the top two settings in the whole park (Valley of the Kings being the other). This is a thoughtful lead. On 2nd it goes much easier. Due to the early awkard traverse, placing gear can get pumpy. A couple of small/micro pieces protect the traverse. Next up a slung horn was key for me. Then stem up to a restful hand jam up and right in the black rock. Then traverse left again and mantle up to the fist/large hand flaring crack. Eases way up after that. Rap is to the right. One fixed bolt with quick link above the route as well. With Chad from CA.

Added: 2013-02-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bowleggedgoat on 2012-11-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars dangling woo li master

awesome

Added: 2012-11-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: johnnygothard on 2010-11-27 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Follow

Not a favorite, but fun.

Added: 2010-11-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gregory_huey on 2009-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Route

I was a bit worried looking from the ground if I could pull off a big stem - presumably the crux. However, entering and exiting the stem isn't as hard as I'd expected. The hand crack was pretty sweet. This was the third level 3 route off the SCMA crack list I led this weekend, but the first one I got clean - so that was nice. This grotto, though a pain in the butt to get to, has a very high concentration of great routes. While you're here do Book of Changes/Sanctuary, Caught Inside on a Big Set and Morning Thunder (which looks difficult to me). This place would be high-traffic if it were easier to get to. Also, some aggressive ants attacked anything we left on the ground - even smelly shoes & socks - finally we hung our packs along the wall with pro. BTW, this route gets good later-day sun in the winter, and the grotto walls reduce the wind.

Added: 2009-03-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: machino on 2009-01-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Dangling Woo Li Master

Best 10a of my life. Props JP.

Added: 2009-01-25

... Read all 28 ascent notes