Routes : North America : United States : California : San Francisco Bay : Castle Rock State Park : California Ridge : Guilty as charged
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Guilty as charged - 5.10d
Average Rating : 3.57 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Sport and Top rope anchors
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Description:
The lower section is V. easy. However the start has a pretty fun move. However, half way up, You get to this impossible smear!!!! Its like a brutal bouldering problem 30 feet up. From there its very thin hands (All Crimps baby!!) but bomber feet. Just think 6 inches at a time. Don't cheat your self and get lowered at the anchors. The real challenge in this climb is the last 6 feet and the top out. NOTE: there is a 5.9 variaton to this climb. At the ledge in the middle go to the right about 10 feet then go up and diagonally back to your left towards the anchor. I'd recommend this variation only on toprope (because of the swingout).
Submitted by: feline143 on 2005-09-09
Views: 1236
Route ID: 32119
Most Recent Photo
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9 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 9 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Top Rope ascent by:
5.9 variation TR
Didn't know about the 5.10d route and just followed up the others guys before me that did the 5.9 variation. Felt pretty silly walking over to the right and then working back up and the left. The start was the best part.
Added: 2013-05-14
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
up
Lipiscius = smear your feet
Added: 2010-01-10
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
last climb before sunset
description is hit the nail right on the head. starting move is pretty cool, basically an immediate mantle over an overhang. hardest part is that top 10-15 ft and it is skippable (i did both). made it back just in time to not get a 65$ ticket
Added: 2009-03-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash ascent by:
lead!
super easy until the crimpy crux at the top.
Added: 2008-12-03
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Not a problem
I used a mantle at the crux and it seemed pretty easy to me, but maybe that's just me cheating with my awesome height advantage. Pretty fun climb.
Added: 2008-11-25
