Do the first two pitches of Igor (instead of the crumbly 5.8 original start for Airy) and traverse on the large ledge over to the base of the good stuff (obvious finger crack in the dihedral between Igor and Ankles Away). Climb up the corner to the hand traverse, place a piece high in the corner with a very long sling, and go for it! The crux is a lieback as the traverse curves up to vertical. Outrageous exposure, but the little dimples and bumps on the face under the horizontal fissure provide good smearing until you get to the crux, and there is no shortage of places to shove protection in. Belay at the roof and finish on the last pitch of Igor. 4 pitches total (counting the 3 of Igor), or 2 if you run the two pitches of Igor and the top pitches of Airy/Igor together with a 70M rope. Rap from the anchors on top of the Witch.
Submitted by: tim on 2002-11-27
Route ID: 16025