Routes : North America : United States : California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls : Upper Falls Area : Lost Arrow Chimney
Lost Arrow Chimney - 5.10a
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock
We used max size #3 Camalot. Others suggested Large cams and Big Bros. (If you bring it you'll use
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Description:
On pitch 6 where Falcon 1998 guide shows face moves, right, past 2 bolts, didn't find this. Fixed pro is in poor condition. Excellent grunt climb
Submitted by: johnr9q on 2006-06-09
Views: 1856
Route ID: 77328
Topo Image
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1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Gnarly
You can link pitches 1 & 2, 3 & 4, and 5 & 6, The pitch in the falcon guide that shows traversing out on the face past two bolts (pitch 6) they're not there, nore are they needed. If you have trouble or are scared before pitch 8, bail, cuz you're gonna die...
Pitch 8 is a rotten chimney with no possibility for pro of any sort. It's about two feet wide and is hell on your knees. Two leepers (side by side) are the only pro about half way up. Good stuff.
Pitch 9 is a typical sandbag .10 yosemite squeeze chimney. You should be able to handle any Valley .10 chimney before you jump on this one.
We brought a single set of cams from .4in to 3in and a set of nuts. Most of the anchors and pro take small cams, not large ones. It's really not worth dragging up any cams bigger than 3in.
Really fun route though.
Pitch 8 is a rotten chimney with no possibility for pro of any sort. It's about two feet wide and is hell on your knees. Two leepers (side by side) are the only pro about half way up. Good stuff.
Pitch 9 is a typical sandbag .10 yosemite squeeze chimney. You should be able to handle any Valley .10 chimney before you jump on this one.
We brought a single set of cams from .4in to 3in and a set of nuts. Most of the anchors and pro take small cams, not large ones. It's really not worth dragging up any cams bigger than 3in.
Really fun route though.
Added: 2008-05-13
