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The Staircase - 5.5 popular

Average Rating = 4.23/5 Average Rating : 4.23 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (31)
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Standard Rack. Great place to practice setting pro for new trad leaders.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.90/5
  Scenery 4.30/5
  Fun Factor 4.60/5

Description:

Stewart Green called this "One of the best 5.5s anywhere." It's an exceptional and popular route that climbs 2 pitches to the summit. Pitch 1 begins on Arch Rock's far left side climbing up an obvious right-facing dihedral (5.4) with infinite places to set pro to a spacious belay ledge overlooking the canyon. Pitch 2 stems up the deep corner (5.5) to another ledge where a direct finish sees you mount a weird, off-width crack (5.8) to the summit. Otherwise, step left at this ledge to easy scrambling to the summit. Descend by walking to the left (north) and picking your way through trees on a steep wooded slope back down to the road. If you left gear at the base of the climb, exit right and go around the rock. Look for a trail that runs you back along the bottom of the face.

Submitted by: bustinmins on 2005-05-30
Views: 1606
Route ID: 3922

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31 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Rock_rat13 on 2013-05-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

Fun little trad climb. Nice view from the top!

Added: 2013-05-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: theresister on 2012-06-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Followed up this fun route

Followed up this fun route using double ropes. With a team of three the two following had plenty of space to climb side by side.
There were plenty of spots to do some 5.8 moves.

Added: 2012-07-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2009-08-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Best 5.5 Ever

This is honestly the most fun I've ever had on a 5.5. The climbing is easy but interesting, there is plenty of gear and for someone needing a little more difficulty the 5.8 finish is a nice addition. If you do the 5.8 finish I recommend placing a piece above the crack to keept the rope from getting eaten.

Added: 2009-08-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: nicko on 2009-05-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First Multi-Pitch - 5.8 direct added some difficulty

Very nice 1st pitch belay station...Great place to eat a lunch even (life lined in your anchor of course). Being my first multi-pitch belay station I guess it spoiled me. Haven't been climbing long...it was an easy route, but a lot of fun nonetheless. The 5.8 direct...I climbed mostly in the Austin, Texas area where this would be more like a 5.10 direct...rating systems change so much! The rest of the climb probabaly would've been a 5.7 at least too. Anyway...I actually took the face directly beside the off-width on the left...basically on the off-width, just not touching the right side. Couldn't figure out how to climb the off width, so had to go that route...still some difficultly as far as I'm concerned.

Added: 2009-05-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ledavis23 on 2008-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Excellent climb!

This climb was really fun! Good views up the canyon with really fun, straight-up climbing! I see why it's so classic. We did the OW version to finish. Too wide for my little fists- my jams are smaller than #3 C4 or I think I would have enjoyed that a lot more.

Added: 2008-07-11

... Read all 31 ascent notes