Stewart Green called this "One of the best 5.5s anywhere." It's an exceptional and popular route that climbs 2 pitches to the summit. Pitch 1 begins on Arch Rock's far left side climbing up an obvious right-facing dihedral (5.4) with infinite places to set pro to a spacious belay ledge overlooking the canyon. Pitch 2 stems up the deep corner (5.5) to another ledge where a direct finish sees you mount a weird, off-width crack (5.8) to the summit. Otherwise, step left at this ledge to easy scrambling to the summit. Descend by walking to the left (north) and picking your way through trees on a steep wooded slope back down to the road. If you left gear at the base of the climb, exit right and go around the rock. Look for a trail that runs you back along the bottom of the face.
Submitted by: bustinmins on 2005-05-30
Route ID: 3922
This is honestly the most fun I've ever had on a 5.5. The climbing is easy but interesting, there is plenty of gear and for someone needing a little more difficulty the 5.8 finish is a nice addition. If you do the 5.8 finish I recommend placing a piece above the crack to keept the rope from getting eaten.
First Multi-Pitch - 5.8 direct added some difficulty
Very nice 1st pitch belay station...Great place to eat a lunch even (life lined in your anchor of course). Being my first multi-pitch belay station I guess it spoiled me. Haven't been climbing long...it was an easy route, but a lot of fun nonetheless. The 5.8 direct...I climbed mostly in the Austin, Texas area where this would be more like a 5.10 direct...rating systems change so much! The rest of the climb probabaly would've been a 5.7 at least too. Anyway...I actually took the face directly beside the off-width on the left...basically on the off-width, just not touching the right side. Couldn't figure out how to climb the off width, so had to go that route...still some difficultly as far as I'm concerned.
This climb was really fun! Good views up the canyon with really fun, straight-up climbing! I see why it's so classic. We did the OW version to finish. Too wide for my little fists- my jams are smaller than #3 C4 or I think I would have enjoyed that a lot more.