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#1 Super Guy - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.80/5 Average Rating : 4.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 74
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Rock
5 bolts or so to 2 bolt anchor. A couple medium nuts will protect the start.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

An amazing roof! Has the potential to be a complete sandbag at 11a, you are forewarned! Difficult to find. In the north end of the north wall of the Bank. Between Quarry Wall (Dust Lust, A Sharp) and #1 Super Guy there are low cliffs with few lines then a gulley. The next cliff band has #1 Super Guy on the far left side climbing the prominent roof, but the approach is from the road up to the right side of this wall (Several routes here: Starving Hippies 11b/c, Incredible Weather 12c/d, and Flesh Tuxedo 11b among others) then hike left along the cliff to find the line. For the roof lover - the only reason the climb isn't 3 stars is the loose start. Climb a easy slightly loose stemming dihedral with a piece of pro or two to a ledge. Climb the balancy fun face to beneath the roof. Clip the bolt behind you on the roof.

Submitted by: bluesky on 2004-04-26
Views: 1061
Route ID: 26268

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6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dindolino32 on 2011-03-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars It's bolted, just go for it.

Fun quick climb. The hardest part for me was the ending mantle because I wasn't looking around. Fun times. I wouldn't call this sandbagged at all.

Added: 2011-04-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cracklover on 2011-03-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars excellent route

Got two good nuts in at the start.

Added: 2011-03-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jmeizis on 2009-11-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Roofy

This is mediocre climb with a fantastic finish. The moves getting to the first bolt aren't super hard but would prove painful if one fell. The moves to the roof are fun, nothing to write home about. The roof is where it's at. Just crazy feeling to cut the feet. Then a few more moves to the anchors. It's just crazy to be upside down looking at your belayer. It's not sandbagged, it's just a little beta intensive.

Added: 2009-11-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ablann on 2007-05-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sweet

Run-out start to a sweet roof.

Added: 2007-05-28

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Flash Flash ascent by: dlintz on 2006-04-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Worth the walk. Some day those blocks above the roof are gonna come off.

Witnessed by: Jake C.
Added: 2006-04-09

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