An amazing roof! Has the potential to be a complete sandbag at 11a, you are forewarned! Difficult to find. In the north end of the north wall of the Bank. Between Quarry Wall (Dust Lust, A Sharp) and #1 Super Guy there are low cliffs with few lines then a gulley. The next cliff band has #1 Super Guy on the far left side climbing the prominent roof, but the approach is from the road up to the right side of this wall (Several routes here: Starving Hippies 11b/c, Incredible Weather 12c/d, and Flesh Tuxedo 11b among others) then hike left along the cliff to find the line. For the roof lover - the only reason the climb isn't 3 stars is the loose start. Climb a easy slightly loose stemming dihedral with a piece of pro or two to a ledge. Climb the balancy fun face to beneath the roof. Clip the bolt behind you on the roof.
Submitted by: bluesky on 2004-04-26
Route ID: 26268
This is mediocre climb with a fantastic finish. The moves getting to the first bolt aren't super hard but would prove painful if one fell. The moves to the roof are fun, nothing to write home about. The roof is where it's at. Just crazy feeling to cut the feet. Then a few more moves to the anchors. It's just crazy to be upside down looking at your belayer. It's not sandbagged, it's just a little beta intensive.