Great crack climb just a little left of Cairo. Starts up a short ramp and then goes directly into a nice, steep, finger-to-hand size crack. One of the more sustained cracks in this range. You must jam, no "cheating" with face holds. Jams are all great! Climb the crack to the top of a block. Route is 30m long. You can do it on a 60m rope....barely! Be careful lowering off.
Submitted by: jtcronk on 2002-07-14
Route ID: 20512
This is one of the better moderate trad climbs at the City. In fact, 3rd only to Animal Crack and Yellow Wall for me. Classic finger crack like you would see at Jtree with large elephant ear patina jugs to assist. Place pro at will. Aesthetic, long and sustained, rarely does single pitch cracking get any better than this. A few cruxes are located in the later half of the climb, where the positive features leave you to deal with the crack direct. I specifically remember palming out right to place a piece and then transition back into the crack, towards the end.