This is a mixed-pro climb, that requires placing gear to protect cruxes, and it requires finding a place for that gear, too. A new eye bolt has been placed, per the FAer's original intent, to protect the first crux. From the base, at the nose, look up to find the eye bolts. Falling between the 2nd and 3rd bolts will be a grounder, so plan on route-finding and trad gear skills. Fun, but not automatic.
Submitted by: jds100 on 2003-07-05
Route ID: 7950
Didn't look at the guide book before hopping on this thing. Thought I was getting on Dos Equis but hadn't been on either so I was just looking for an arete with some bolts. Turned it into a sketchy 3 bolt sport climb. Glad to have not fallen on it but I won't be doing it again without gear.
I think a bolt or two may have been added since I led this route; check the latest edition of the guidebook. Started with ring bolt fairly high, but felt solid. Set trad gear; can be tough to find a rhythm; holds and sequences are not obvious. Glad to get to the top with a nice big clean top of the bluff with chain anchors.