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Thomas Bear Memorial - 5.11a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 12
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock
trad; one 1/4 inch bolt; chain anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Just right of Dos Equis, it starts with a bouldery start to thin edges, on a slightly overhanging face. Use the thin edges and rare pockets to work up to a high rest stance. Proceed up, using what you can, then negotiate the final bulge. For the gear-lovers, John Payne used tri-cam matrixes to protect this climb; now try to imagine hanging out setting pieces, then stringing them together with a sling into a proper point of protection; then imagine climbing above that gear and trying to feel comfortable if you fall on it. The 1/4 incher is a remnant, and not recommended for use. The State Park rangers won't let him put in new fixed pro. Recommended!!

Submitted by: jds100 on 2003-01-19
Views: 698
Route ID: 7954

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jake83 on 2012-02-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Amazing

one of the best mixed routes around just not for the faint of heart. the old rusty safety bolt has been replaced with a nice 1/2" stainless one.

Added: 2013-01-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: jds100 on 1996-10-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars lotta fun

followed/ TR'd. Tough from the very beginning; thin, sharp, sustained; outstanding. Cool final move. On lead, this route takes thin and sketchy trad; the one bolt might have been replaced by a new safe one, but none have been added to the route.

Added: 2012-07-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating X
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Seibert on 2012-02-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars ...

...

Added: 2012-02-19