Just right of Dos Equis, it starts with a bouldery start to thin edges, on a slightly overhanging face. Use the thin edges and rare pockets to work up to a high rest stance. Proceed up, using what you can, then negotiate the final bulge. For the gear-lovers, John Payne used tri-cam matrixes to protect this climb; now try to imagine hanging out setting pieces, then stringing them together with a sling into a proper point of protection; then imagine climbing above that gear and trying to feel comfortable if you fall on it. The 1/4 incher is a remnant, and not recommended for use. The State Park rangers won't let him put in new fixed pro. Recommended!!
Submitted by: jds100 on 2003-01-19
Route ID: 7954
followed/ TR'd. Tough from the very beginning; thin, sharp, sustained; outstanding. Cool final move. On lead, this route takes thin and sketchy trad; the one bolt might have been replaced by a new safe one, but none have been added to the route.