Routes : North America : United States : Illinois : South : Cedar Bluff : Playground Wall : Thomas Bear Memorial
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Thomas Bear Memorial - 5.11a
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 12
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock
trad; one 1/4 inch bolt; chain anchors
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Description:
Just right of Dos Equis, it starts with a bouldery start to thin edges, on a slightly overhanging face. Use the thin edges and rare pockets to work up to a high rest stance. Proceed up, using what you can, then negotiate the final bulge. For the gear-lovers, John Payne used tri-cam matrixes to protect this climb; now try to imagine hanging out setting pieces, then stringing them together with a sling into a proper point of protection; then imagine climbing above that gear and trying to feel comfortable if you fall on it. The 1/4 incher is a remnant, and not recommended for use. The State Park rangers won't let him put in new fixed pro. Recommended!!
Submitted by: jds100 on 2003-01-19
Views: 1017
Route ID: 7954
3 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | X |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Amazing
one of the best mixed routes around just not for the faint of heart. the old rusty safety bolt has been replaced with a nice 1/2" stainless one.
Added: 2013-01-16
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
lotta fun
followed/ TR'd. Tough from the very beginning; thin, sharp, sustained; outstanding. Cool final move. On lead, this route takes thin and sketchy trad; the one bolt might have been replaced by a new safe one, but none have been added to the route.
Added: 2012-07-14
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | X |
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Added: 2012-02-19
