No Place Like Home - 5.11c

My partner was so psyched to climb this route. He got it with one hang and I followed. I fell numerous times... Need to build up some strength for this one:)

I have been looking at this beautiful arete every time we drove past it for 2 years now, and wishing to climb it someday. Well, this was the day, finally, and I was not disapointed.

Exposed arete climbing at it's best. Gut-clenching pumpy AND crimpy crux sequence to the left of the arete with several full-exension moves to hidden holds, followed by moving back to the right face for desperate clip... Knowing the beta would make it easier...

First bolt is about 40 feet up? The guidebook says to climb the 5.7 first pitch of Whiteout to start. But it did not make any sense. Yes, I did it on my first try of the day, but decided that the unprotected traverse from the anchors on 5.7 to the first bolt of No Place is way worse than just soloing to the first bolt. That's what I did on redpoint. Note to self: start building that trad rack already!

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finally came back to it.

Fun route with a cool view.