Skip to Content

< Previous | Next >

Where Lizards Dare (5.9+) - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.43/5 Average Rating : 4.43 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 40
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (14)
Ed Pearsall
Rock (Trad)
G
thin finger sized gear. C3's, Aliens, and small stoppers.
60
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.75/5
  Scenery 3.75/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

From the belay ledge above Calypso III, climb the thin dihedral to a ledge below a roof. This is a sandbag at 5.9+, more like 10a. Excellent route.

Descent Options:

rap from chains

Submitted by: gripped on 2008-06-07
Views: 343
Route ID: 14777

14 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 14 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: shrug7 on 2009-04-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Burrly 5.9...

I'd have to give this a 5.10 c/d rating. Small fingers needed, and it's chalked to hell...



Added: 2009-04-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ClimbitToday on 2008-09-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Simply spectacular!

This thing is sustained and you better be a 5.10 climber if you get on this one. Can't wait to do it again! Be very careful on the ledge above calypso. There are lots of very loose rocks!

Added: 2009-01-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: rudolphluciani on 2008-04-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars WOW

What a great route! By FAR the burliest 5.9 I've ever been on. Felt WAY more like 5.10d to me!

Added: 2008-04-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mazzystr on 2007-09-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars redpoint

Where Lizards Dare has been burning in the back of my mind for a few years. I dragged my partner up to Fortress so I could climb this. A party was putzing around on Calypso III. I was like Dammit! I look over at The Snake...I'm like aw maaan. I really dont feel like doing offwidths today... So I gear up and levitate up the Snake. I was shocked. That sucker really took me for alot back in the day. My 2nd comes up. The folks on Calypso III were like "Where are you two going???" I'm like "Up there" and pointed. Their jaws drop!

The climb went fairly smooth albeit slow. I ended up chugging a few hard layback moves for the final jug.

A weight has been definitely been lifted from my shoulders!

Added: 2007-09-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: mazzystr on 2005-10-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars aided it

man did i whip on this sucker. i was with a new partner and i whipped and popped gear. i ended up having to aid up the son of a gun...

5.9...yea right.

Added: 2007-09-23

... Read all 14 ascent notes