Hand crack found at the extreme left end of Phantasia Wall, left of Overlord, left side of amphitheater. Chimney up to gain crack proper and generous edges. Continue up using jams and fading edges through flaring slot (crux) to the top. Rap from trees-slings. 65+ ft.
Submitted by: brushman on 2006-09-05
Route ID: 77286
I led this thinking it was going to be a chill warm up. Nope. Ended up being on the route for like 40 minutes. None of my gear was any good, and I just couldn't keep it together very well. Still held on for the onsite but wouldn't recommend this to new 5.7 leaders that don't have bigger gear.
We'd had some rain, so the crack was wet when we climbed it. Kinda hurt, and I slid off the last hard move at the top of the crack. D'oh! Probably deserves a 5.7+, as it is pretty burly through the top half.