Start below a thin finger crack at the right side of the slab. Follow the crack through good finger locks to a small stance at the right edge of the slab(crux). Put some good gear in here. Traverse out left about 5 ft. and head up on slab moves with increasingly better hand holds and foot holds(5.6). There's no gear for the last 15 ft of the climb. Note: At the start of the climb, there's a small piece of the crack that is getting pretty loose. It's going to break free one day....just be careful with it.
Build an anchor above the climb or traverse left to reach the shuts on the unknown, 5.10d. Walk off to the left.
Submitted by: jersteck on 2009-05-03
Route ID: 93259
Great first 30 ft then the crack and protection run out. Real route doesn't clip the last bolt on the 10d next to it but after running it out I will clip that bolt every time. Ground-fall for sure if you don't clip it!