Skip to Content

Unknown, 5.8 - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock (Trad)
PG13
1
Small nuts and small cams less than 1".
40
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.67/5
  Fun Factor 3.67/5

Description:

Start below a thin finger crack at the right side of the slab. Follow the crack through good finger locks to a small stance at the right edge of the slab(crux). Put some good gear in here. Traverse out left about 5 ft. and head up on slab moves with increasingly better hand holds and foot holds(5.6). There's no gear for the last 15 ft of the climb. Note: At the start of the climb, there's a small piece of the crack that is getting pretty loose. It's going to break free one day....just be careful with it.

Descent Options:

Build an anchor above the climb or traverse left to reach the shuts on the unknown, 5.10d. Walk off to the left.

Submitted by: jersteck on 2009-05-03
Views: 515
Route ID: 93259

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rockrat512 on 1973-05-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars way back when

return trip to the upper slab way back when, led this trad and one of the middle routes now bolted. R/ maybe X when i did it

Added: 2010-06-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Laxinbueck162 on 2009-10-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars wow scary

Great first 30 ft then the crack and protection run out. Real route doesn't clip the last bolt on the 10d next to it but after running it out I will clip that bolt every time. Ground-fall for sure if you don't clip it!

Added: 2010-05-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: miico000 on 2008-10-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Upper Slab 5.8 at Locust Grove

At least the third time I have lead this one.

Added: 2008-10-14