Free Base - 5.11d

this route is spooky as hell!! first some history: this route was rated 5.12a in the old red book, and is 5.11d int he new handren book. i think that both of the ratings might be a little over-rated, however, this route is sketchy enough that you better be solid at those grades to climb this thing. first you get off the deck on this weird crack, and get a #3 BD in, which is your only ro for a while so you better make it good. then you run it out through some sketchy moves to a littel ledge where you can get in a nut and a manky #1 metolius cam. then you start climbing the bolts on the route, which are set in bad rock, and are already coming out a little. dont trust these bolts, but there aren't any other places for gear, so clip them and move on. the olds get good, but look like they might pop any second, so the climbing is not hard, just a little chossy. after you clip the third bolt, head out left through a seam and over the bulge to good holds. sketch-mo!!!!

Way fun! Huge "Hollywood" jugs, on a hard overhang. Get up it fast or you'll wear out!