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Myster Z - 5.7

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Phil Broscovak, Geoff Conley
Rock (Trad)
PG13
8
Standard rack to 3", long slings
900
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.14/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.12/5
  Fun Factor 3.29/5

Description:

This is a beautiful route that ascends the southeast face of Jackrabbit Buttress, approximately 100 yards left of Geronimo, just before you round the buttress and drop into the wash. Start in a small cave about 20' up with a bush in it- a long, obvious crack system leaves this cave. Pitch 1: Head up the crack system, eventually belaying on an obvious ledge in a chimney. 120, 5.7 Pitch 2: Continue up the chimney, stepping left when possible into a nice handcrack. Follow this to an large open slab, belay at a stance on a ledge. 120', 5.6 Pitch 3: Traverse across the slabs to an obvious bush at the base of a right leaning crack system, 200', 3rd class Pitch 4: Climb the crack system to a nice belay ledge next to a rock on a pedestal. 130', 5.6 Pitch 5: Continue up the crack system until you reach the base of an overhanging chimney. From here, traverse right about 30' to a nice handcrack. Follow this to a ledge and belay. 150', 5.6 Pitch 6: Continue up the crack to a ledge. 60', 5.5 Pitches 7&8- 3rd class up to the top of the formation, approximately 200'

Descent Options:

From the summit, work your way due west, staying left when you can along ledge systems until you reach the bowl at the base of the Brownstone Wall. From here, traverse south along the bowl to the obvious rocky trailhead at the base of the bowl. A 20 minut

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2007-11-17
Views: 1260
Route ID: 90735

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9 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2011-11-07 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Mmmm

this route was not real memorable except for the friable rock on P1, although I would venture to say I was mildly off route. A lot of vertical hiking that deposits you at the base of Brownstone where the good climbing begins.

Added: 2011-11-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: explorator on 2010-04-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars nice and sunny

out w/doug m. I led p's2 and 5. fun stemming on p5.

Added: 2010-04-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Scenery
Onsight Onsight ascent by: 858jason on 2009-11-14 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars None

None

Added: 2009-11-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
Second Second ascent by: mjwestla on 2009-03-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars varied but a bit sketchy in places

A friend and I followed a guide up this route. I don't have a lot of gear beta as a result plus our guide was pretty fearless with the runouts :) We did it in 6 pitches if I recall. No bolts. The rock was decent at the beginning with a few less than solid holds, but as we got higher it seemed to get sketchier in general. Near the top I broke of a fist sized piece of the rounded white stuff while barely gripping it and nearly dropped it. I also kept crushing footholds right and left... very unnerving. The worst bit was climbing up the chimney/flare pitch (perhaps off route? more about that below) where the footholds were crumbling and there wasn't much gear (unless you had a set of at least 4 or so big cams) and the flakes that looked like appealing hand holds kept flexing under the least bit of weight. I followed this b/c I though maybe I might want to try leading it later, but I think I might stay away given the runouts on dubious rock... at least the way we went up. Maybe the real route would have felt safer.

While we were heading up a second guide-client group came up behind us and told our guide he might be off route after the 3rd class pitch (we hadn't gone far enough left). This is what led us into territory I would consider a bit runout and scary on lead. We started up the face until a finger crack appeared, which was fine but then we hit the big flaring crack that continued for most of the remainder of the pitch. We chimneyed up with minimal gear (here's where the big cams would have been useful) on rather crumbly rock in places. Not deadly, but with the lack of gear it made me nervous. From there we ended up following a much smaller crack and that is where the belay was. I think after that we got converged with Myster Z again but not having been there before it's hard to say. The top pitches became substantially easier and a bit less rewarding. Eventually it turned into a hike up the slabs to the brownstone wall (which is a pretty awesome area actually).

The hike down the slabs and through the scrambly boulder field was no big deal; I kept my climbing shoes on. It was time consuming though, 45 min or so to get back to the start of this route. Wouldn't want to do it in the dark.

Nice views of Crimson Chrysalis and Geronimo all the way up. Had a hard time seeing folks on CC although we kept hearing them, at least until I realized how huge that pillar was - they looked like ants when we found them! Very hard to judge the scale.


Added: 2009-04-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: danabart on 2008-10-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars A good route

I liked this route. I didn't think there was an excessive amount of loose rock: actually, I found very little. The descent was quite easy. Walk across some some slabs - level ground, for all intents and purposes - then simply go down the path back to where you left the packs. I agree that it is not 5.7. I thought it was 5.6.

Added: 2009-02-03

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