A nice route that gets a ton of traffic. All the belay ledges are huge (except for Pitch 2, which is currently a chimney belay with two bolts, a smallish ledge just below it is an alternative if the bolts are not there.) Watch the first 15' of this route, dont put any pro in or the rope drag will kill you. Traverse right and cruise up the crack system. Pitch 3 is run out, but easy. Pitch 4 is fun. Pitch 5 is the tunnel (bring a headlamp and some tricams, look for the 'P' on the slabs in the tunnel). Pitch 6 is fun, as is Pitch 7. You can escape left at the top of 6. Descent: See Group Therapy. JSJ42: You can do this (easily) in three pitches with a 70m rope. Each one uses all the rope and be judicious with gear).
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2006-04-23
Route ID: 14584
This was my first big wall. Did the 5.9 variation to start (felt harder) and a couple other harder variations on the route. Very fun, great experience. Climbing through the "tunnel" is great, just make sure whoever is leading the tunnel pitch can chimney confidently. Felt really exposed on the last pitch because it was suuuuuper windy but that kinda added to the fun. Would love to come back and do this one again.
Good route, the run out is not bad, and the tunnel was sweet. You don't really need a head lamp if it is sunny. There was hardly any traffic on the route on a Wednesday. Only two parties climbed ahead of us that day. We passed two guys at the tunnel while linking p4 and p5 with a 70m rope.
A first for me in terms of hazards. I had to pass three parties, which was to be expected, even on a weekday, but the first had a sick young lady on 2nd. She threw up three times. I hugged the rock hard each time to avoid being covered in vomit. Just when you thought you had seen it all on these popular RR routes. Was rewarded in the evening with a delightful evening at Jorge and Joanne Urioste's house, sharing stories and tales.