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Repulsion ** - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 11
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Rock
standard rack, thin to 4"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

Quality climbing, apart from the 4th pitch on Standard Route. (P1) Start up Standard Route Direct. Step left at a bolt, then follow thin cracks to a stance at the base of the prominent Toe Crack. 60', 5.8. (P2) Climb Toe Crack. At its top, move left onto face, then up the clean arete that forms the left margin of Standard Route gully. At the top of the arete, step right into the gully and belay at Standard Route's tree cave. 130', 5.7. (P3) Move up discontinuous cracks just left of the arete into a short right-facing, right-leaning corner. Traverse right (crux, take care to protect the second) into the gully and belay at another tree. 60', 5.8+. (P4) Finish up the Standard Route. Move left onto Thin Air at the top. 150', 5.4+. (P5) A short, clean unprotected slab and corner lead to the walkoff ledge. 30', 5.6R.

Submitted by: ambler on 2006-07-24
Views: 1003
Route ID: 5766

11 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: blueeyedclimber on 2008-07-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2010-02-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jaablink on 2009-06-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2010-02-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: benmoreite on 2007-06-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Climbed the first two pitches to the cave, and then finished on Standard Route

Added: 2007-06-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dominic7 on 2006-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

With Hans. Nice 5.8 pitch after toe crack. Finished up Standard Route.

Added: 2006-07-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2005-04-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Slippery when wet

Only did the 1st pitch as a work around to get to Toe Crack. The crux is a slabby traverse out left and when I did it the route was streaming water. Took a 15-20 footer onto the lone bolt and then got back on it and barely squeaked the crux. If you see wetness it is guaranteed that you have too step in it be careful!

Added: 2005-04-25

... Read all 11 ascent notes