60 meter rope needed. One of my favorite routes goes out a wild flake/arete with great exposure and great hands and feet the whole way DO THIS ROUTE! The best 5.10 at Rumney.
***WARNING JOLT HAS LOST IT'S ANCHOR DUE TO ROCK FALL, DO NOT CLIMB THIS OR DOLT DUE TO UNSTABLE ROCK***
Submitted by: redpoint73 on 2003-08-29
Last Modified: 2013-05-16
Route ID: 3562
I loved this climb! Just as I was getting on the route the rain clouds were rolling in. I quickly cruised the first part of the climb. Once getting to the fin the climb changes drastically. Talk about feeling exposure! Going from a great stance out onto the fin is so exciting, and adrenaline is pumping. Once you get out onto the fin the remainder of the climb is casual. A light rain started just after clipping the chains. (i lucked out)
Great, great climb...totally recommend leading this over seconding or TRing.
Amazing route with solid/comfortable clipping locations. Definitely worth climbing more than once and a must do if you're up in the area and the route is open. Fantastic view from the top, worth sitting up there to just see what you can see.
Cleared it on lead after watching a few pals get on it. The top third is definitely mucho exposed compared to most of Rumney. The edge of the arete offers the best holds but you're not so willing to get very close and risk the barn door around that corner! Grade seems fair, despite the arguments made below by other commenters. I pulled a few small flakes off while climbing, watch out for that.