Skip to Content

< Previous | Next >

8-Ball - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.42/5 Average Rating : 3.42 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
Rock (Trad) (Toprope)
G
Trad, toprope
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.83/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.12/5

Description:

A couple of long, hard moves to get off the ground, then easy corner climbing and an exposed finish.

Submitted by: joshy8200 on 2007-11-19
Last Modified: 2007-12-01
Views: 291
Route ID: 73091

13 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 13 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: MikeSaint on 2009-09-06 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun

Good route when the crowds are at the amphitheater.

Added: 2009-09-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: MGQ on 2009-03-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun Short Climb

The start is very similar to a boulder problem. Very powerful start.. USE FEET and then get over the ledge and its home free!

Added: 2009-04-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: m_daughtridge on 2009-03-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun but short

Fun. Due to the slope of the terrain below the start is not as scary or dangerous as it could be, but you'll be glad for a belayer taking slack dilligently for the first few moves. The route is short enough that rope stretch shouldn't be much of a factor on top rope.

Added: 2009-04-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2009-02-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars powerful start

Like everyone else said, it's harder if you are short and have to do some tricky dyno or use clever body work to bring the holds into reach. All told though, it's about 3 or 4 moves and you are through the start and it's all clear and way easier for the remainder. Fun little sequence though, and I recommend trying it at least once. There aren't that many other wacky power/boulder starts like this at Pilot in my experience.

To make it more interesting, try switching to the right face after the start. It's considerably more difficult but closer to the grade (5.8 instead of 5.6).

Note: I thought the natural anchors were a pain to set up. No real trees, just a bunch of boulders to sling and maybe some gear. I pulled together a hodge-podge and was happy with it, but it was really too time consuming for such a short set of climbs, especially since they are really just about the start. You can more or less use the same anchor for 8 and 9 ball. Not sure about 10.

Added: 2009-02-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: MrMeticulous on 2007-11-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars 8 ball corner pocket

Nice start and grabbing over the lip...then walk it out.

Added: 2008-10-02

... Read all 13 ascent notes