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The Daddy, P3 variation - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.78/5 Average Rating : 4.78 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (14)
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Rock
small meadium nuts and cams
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.80/5
  Rock Quality 4.20/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.80/5

Description:

from the P2 belay ledge pull the roof and up a crack system to access the face. There is not pro on the face so place your pro in the crack system while you can.

Submitted by: fanederhand on 2003-07-07
Last Modified: 2006-11-27
Views: 1387
Route ID: 37785

14 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: IsayAutumn on 2011-11-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great route

5.8 variation is more like a 5.6 variation.

Added: 2011-11-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: twowheeledclimber on 2010-07-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars exploring the straight up option

Climbed the first two pitches of the Daddy as is, including stopping at the tree short of the ledge. Simu'd up to the ledge. Started P3 about 6 feet right of a smaller tree. Pulled through a roof/bulge, through some sparsely protected shallow pocket and lichen terrain and gained a large diagonal hand crack with good jams and good gear. Traversed this 15 foot hand crack, moved up and around a death flake and built an anchor at a stance at the bottom of a vegetated crack. Moved through the crack which ended just a few feet to the right of the dihedral on p5 of The Daddy proper. Continued this short pitch straight to the summit.

Added: 2010-08-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2009-11-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars glutton for punishment

Had a buddy who wanted to get on this and the weather was incredible for November, so I returned for more (was here last weekend). Shared leads - I combined 2+3 and took the direct variation on 3. I was surprised by how easy it was; felt more like a 5.6+ or so. There were jugs and gear for the move straight up off the bulge/slight overhang and then the climbing seemed about as runout as any other parts of the climb. The sketchiest thing was the lichen near the topout. Maybe it's harder if you go a different way? I went straight up from the top of 2nd pitch by the medium sized tree. In all, a fun section of climbing though.

Did the gully rap this time. It's actually not too bad; hike down the buttress gully from the top a short distance (50ft?) and then do a short rappel from fixed ropes (at the time of this post) through two tiers of rock until you can scramble/hike the rest of the way down. The hardest part is making sure the rope pulls clean as there is a constriction point on the left wall with a chock stone.

Added: 2009-11-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sf on 2009-11-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars good variation, 4th classed entire route

simul-climbed in a single push
~35 minutes bottom to top, single rack
I lead, Whiteflash seconded
had to pass a party on pitch 5- took arete to right of corner

Added: 2009-11-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: disgruntledbare on 2008-09-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

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Added: 2008-11-05

... Read all 14 ascent notes