you can either access the upper (good) 10- pitche from the top, or do a 5.7 dihedral pitch and to weird 8 crack pitch from the bottom to access the rest. The meat of this climb is the last pitche. It starts as 5.9 nice steep dihedral that ends on a pedestal. From here, look in awe at the roof above and wonder how it's only 10-. Place some gear about 1/2 way out the roof and get horizontal. Pull the roof and continue up the weakness/crack system on the overhanging headwall to the top. Total fun guaranteed or your money back.
did all three pitches. pitch one would be okay if it wasn't wet at the top. there is a good 60ft of bush between p1 and p2. p2 was pretty good and then one of the proudest 5.10 pitches ever! the exposure and commitment surely make the grade. a must do for the 5.10 nc trad climber.
...this time. Last time I fell off and had to lower back to the belay. This time it all felt much easier. I'd give the corner 5.9 and the roof a juggy steep 10a. It gets 10b in the guide and I thought so the 1st time up, but I think 10a is more appropriate.