Routes : North America : United States : Oregon : Smith Rock : 04. The Dihedrals : Left : Bookworm ***
Bookworm *** - 5.7
Average Rating : 3.12 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (20)
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Rock
Gear to 3.5(?) inches
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Description:
Deceptively stout with the crux right off the deck. Grunt through an overhanging off-width bulge to an awkward stance and desperately place something bomber before continuing up the crack to stay off the ground. Takes big hands to jam, otherwise rely on feet in the crack and nubs and pockets to balance hands. We all felt Alan Watts' 5.7 difficulty rating was too low and the 3 stars for quality was too high. More like a 5.8* in my book.
Submitted by: vespernine on 2005-09-06
Last Modified: 2007-01-06
Views: 1063
Route ID: 69434
20 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 20 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
Top Rope ascent by:
Lots of arm bars
Just a little too wide for a fist jam, so this climb was done with a lot of arm bars and foot jams using the full length of my size six foot.
Added: 2012-11-20
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor |  |
Onsight ascent by:
Fun
Fun route, my first multi-pitch. Like someone else said if you climb it mid day in the summer you'll about slip right off due to sweaty hands lol.
Added: 2012-04-23
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
easy offwidth?
I got on this crack at the very end of a very hot sweaty day, and was surprised at how slippery I found the wide stuff. The jams at the bottom are great, but then it gets wider and while it would be hard to fall, it can be tricky to go up too.
This is the first climb I have ever stacked two hand jams together, which convinced me that Leavittation must really be cool if you can do it.
This is the first climb I have ever stacked two hand jams together, which convinced me that Leavittation must really be cool if you can do it.
Added: 2010-10-03
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
Ascent Note
Top roped this after leading Ancylostoma. Kind of big for comfortable hands, used fists and arm bars.
Added: 2010-10-02
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Stiff for a 5.7
Agreed - this felt more like a 5.8 (at least) in my mind. The first pitch is as described - crack that is borderline off-width. I misjudged the size - and placed my 2 #3's early on, and just had to run the rest of it out with a whole bunch of useless small-med stuff hanging from my harness. (bring a #4, and a #5 if you've got it!) 2-bolt rap/belay station on a nice ledge. The bolts are high - I could barely reach them by hand, and had to build a proper anchor with slings just to reach them with my PAS/daisy chain.
The 2nd pitch is bolted (same pitch as bunny face), and is fun, but a totally different climb - face climbing on nubs and knobs, with lots of bolts (9 as I recall, and also a 2-bolt rap station). With a 60m rope it's 2 single-rope raps to the ground.
The 2nd pitch is bolted (same pitch as bunny face), and is fun, but a totally different climb - face climbing on nubs and knobs, with lots of bolts (9 as I recall, and also a 2-bolt rap station). With a 60m rope it's 2 single-rope raps to the ground.
Added: 2010-06-16
