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Bookworm *** - 5.7

Average Rating = 3.18/5 Average Rating : 3.18 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (21)
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Rock
Gear to 3.5(?) inches
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.17/5
  Rock Quality 3.42/5
  Scenery 3.17/5
  Fun Factor 3.58/5

Description:

Deceptively stout with the crux right off the deck. Grunt through an overhanging off-width bulge to an awkward stance and desperately place something bomber before continuing up the crack to stay off the ground. Takes big hands to jam, otherwise rely on feet in the crack and nubs and pockets to balance hands. We all felt Alan Watts' 5.7 difficulty rating was too low and the 3 stars for quality was too high. More like a 5.8* in my book.

Submitted by: vespernine on 2005-09-06
Last Modified: 2007-01-06
Views: 1318
Route ID: 69434

21 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Seanathon10 on 2014-04-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Used this as the second pitch to Ancylostoma

It was much easier than the first pitch.

Added: 2014-05-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: pmcheng on 2012-11-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Lots of arm bars

Just a little too wide for a fist jam, so this climb was done with a lot of arm bars and foot jams using the full length of my size six foot.

Added: 2012-11-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cdrysdale3 on 2009-08-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun

Fun route, my first multi-pitch. Like someone else said if you climb it mid day in the summer you'll about slip right off due to sweaty hands lol.

Added: 2012-04-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: milesenoell on 2010-10-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars easy offwidth?

I got on this crack at the very end of a very hot sweaty day, and was surprised at how slippery I found the wide stuff. The jams at the bottom are great, but then it gets wider and while it would be hard to fall, it can be tricky to go up too.

This is the first climb I have ever stacked two hand jams together, which convinced me that Leavittation must really be cool if you can do it.

Added: 2010-10-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: gochubug on 2010-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Top roped this after leading Ancylostoma. Kind of big for comfortable hands, used fists and arm bars.

Added: 2010-10-02

... Read all 21 ascent notes