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Center Face - 5.6

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
G
5
Standard Rack
500
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Starts up the face 75 feet (23m) left of Jam Crack. Base is more level than at Jam Crack, right of where a pair of diagonal cracks hit the ground, just left of a small vegetated crack. The guide lists this as 3 pitches, 5.6R, 5.5R, 5.5R. Since then someone has added 4 new sets of bolts making an almost even 5 pitches. Pitch length approx 100 ft (30m), 100 ft (30m), 110 ft (33m), 100 ft (30m), 85 feet (26m). Runout face sections have been bolted, no pitches are R anymore.

Descent Options:

Rap or very long walkoff, Recommend a 70m rope or two rope rappel or you'll come up 2 meters short on the 3rd rap with a 60m rope.

Submitted by: mgoodro on 2008-07-24
Views: 1129
Route ID: 94923

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mgoodro on 2008-07-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars I love this wall

You can't ask for much more in the 5.5-5.6 range than what this climb delivers. Pitches 1, 2, and 5 are excellent, solid climbing. Getting nearly 1000' off the valley floor is invigorating. The vigorous approach keeps a lot of people away, I've yet to see another group here. I was braced for 3 long pitches of poor (R) protection, so I was very surprised (and a little disappointed) to see that the runout sections have all been bolted. Having enjoyed the shiny new hardware on Jam Crack I wasn't surprised that the belay stations were bolted, but I was surprised to find the route broken into 5 pitches. Pitches 1-2 and 4-5 can be combined, pitch 3 is too long to combine using a 60m rope (I had to build an anchor 10 feet shy of the third station). I led on two ropes and seconded two climbers. Rope drag was only noticeable when combining pitches.

Added: 2008-07-24