A burly, but high quality route on the left side of the lower tier of Castle Rock. More straightforward and better protected than the neighboring Smut. Climb a greasy, discontinuous finger crack followed by several tricky mantel moves over bulges and belay in an alcove just below the Catapult roof.
Rapel off the small tree (slings and rap rings) or continue up Catapult or the Bone.
Submitted by: lithophiliac on 2013-06-16
Route ID: 114057
Did this first in '89 and probably 20 times since then. Still a tricky lead after all this time!! The key is placing gear in the less positive locks and using the good ones to climb. Of course, I never seem to get this right:(! During one of my early and impressionable ascents, I had Jim Yoder solo up and past me complaining that "he almost greased off down there!" Freaked me out at the time, but I think he was just hamming it up!